San Pedro Amuzgos

San Pedro Amuzgos is the capital of the Amuzgos in the state of Oaxaca. The Amuzgos are thought by many to have been the original settlers of the coastal region of Oaxaca and Guerrero. They are an interesting people. Although few in number and subjugated first by the Mixtecs, then by the Aztecs, they have managed to maintain and strengthen their ancient traditions, culture and language.

This is most likely due to the fact that they were so highly respected for their skills and abilities. The Anuzgos call themselves tsan-núa, "People of the Yarn". Amuzgo comes from amoxcho (from the Náhuatl amoxtli or book, and co or place of); therefore, Amuzgo means "place of books". They were known for the knowledge of medicinal plants and they are still rightly famous for their skills in the textile arts.

One of the most important activities is creating the beautiful embroidered dresses, or huipiles that most of women and adolescents proudly wear every day of the week. (Some 90 percent of the town's population is Amuzgo.) Women are involved in making the cloth, weaving the cotton on backstrap looms, dyeing and embroidering, some even grow and spin the raw cotton.

The Amuzgo huipil is made from 100% cotton and adorned with figures that represent the cosmological symbols of their ancestors. The geometric patterns in the horizontal stripes represent heaven or the Eye of God; the zig-zag patterns represent the Plumed Serpent, the symbol of wisdom and piety. Other motifs include roses, crabs, scorpions and other creatures.

During fiesta days there are special masses, processions with a profusion of flowers and incense and traditional dances, especially important to the Amuzgos, a solemn and sacred ritual to give thanks to the creator.

The first day of the fiesta the dancers who have kept vigil and been fasting in the church emerge accompanied by the women resplendent in their finest huipiles and carrying branches of manzanilla, geranium other flowers of the season and pots of burning incense. Led by the brass band and enveloped in smoke, the procession passes through the entire town and eventually comprises most of its population, including screaming children and staggering drunks.

They make their way to the home of the mayordomo, the man honored to be chosen as fiesta sponsor. A tarp and benches have been set up in the yard and as the dancers dance and musicians play beer and mezcal is handed out.

The fiesta dances include the Chareo. Versions of this dance are performed in many indigenous towns on the coast. It is an adaptation of the Christians versus the Moors battle, probably first introduced to the region shortly after the Conquest.

The dancers are dressed in white shirts and red pants with ribbons tied around their legs and arms and rattles on the feet. Their headgear is adorned with colored feathers, blue, yellow and violet ribbons and mirrors . One of the dancers wears a clay mask and holds the village flag. They begin their mock battle to the accompaniment flute and drum.

There is also the Dance of the Apaches, where six participants pose as women in pink dresses. This dance is accompanied by the entire town band. The dancers whirl around one another, the men making advances at the women , who angrily reject them, much to the delight of the crowd. Other men pick up the giant Calenda puppets and join the dancing.

The dances can go on for several hours, before breaking up for a communal fiesta meal.

San Pedro Amuzgo lies about three hours from Puerto Escondido, a pleasant drive, especially once you leave Pinotepa Nacional and climb into the mountains, passing small clusters of home, overlooking valleys of plowed fields. There are splendid views, the landscape lushly green and bursting with color. When the town isn't in fiesta, the visitor will see women weaving in front of their homes. The huipiles from here are the among the most prized in Oaxaca and have brought fame to its weavers far beyond Mexico's borders.

There are several stores in town selling shawls, huipiles and other articles. San Pedro is a kind of clearing house for textiles from the area. The shawls, rebozos, are of natural, unbleached cotton with embroidery and openwork across the length. Trajes Regionales Elia has a good selection of quality huipiles, as well as books and other items for sale. There is also a crafts market in the town center.

In safeguarding their ancient traditions, the Amuzgo have cooperative groups of weavers, embroiderers, even spinners and growers of cotton. This way the traditional techniques are passed down through the generations.

The community has recently launched a project to create a community center, cultural center and botanical garden. The effort is headed by Dr. Alejandra Santaella, a Puerto resident originally from San Pedro Amuzgos and Fermín Taia García, chronicler of Amuzgo history, who has compiled a Spanish-Amuzgo dictionary. (Tel: 582-1472, alempera@hotmail.com, if you would like to help.)

Textile tours will soon be offered to Amuzgo communities by Artisan Adventure (artisanadventure@yahoo.com)