North of the border some 800 bird varieties have been recorded; Mexico can count about 1,100 different species, 746 of which can be seen in Oaxaca.

There are many guide books to bird spotting, but a new bird guide to the Oaxacan coast has just been published that is particularly interesting, because it focuses specifically on the relatively tiny wetlands complex of Palmasola and Naranjos, which is just 10 minutes up the road from Puerto's centro.

The book Guia de Aves Humedales Palmasola y Los Naranjos by Carlos Bonilla-Ruz et al was supported by grants from leading Mexican research institutions. It lists 94 of the 120 species that have been registered at the Lagunas.

Palmasola is an example of how tourism (at least a small but growing slice of it) can positively impact a region. A growing number of previously marginalized communities have turned to eco-tourism for sustainable economic growth. In the process, a culture of environmentalism takes root. In this case, it's the small towns of Barra de Navidad and La Ventanilla (not to be confused with the community near Mazunte which earlier followed this path).

When I heard about the book I went over to Barra to see Galo Sánchez, who oversees the operation, running the iguana, crocodile and turtle hatchery, where the creatures are raised for later release. I must admit I haven't toured the lagoons since the project was first set up and Galo took me for a ride one July evening. Here's what I wrote then:

At a small clearing in the mangroves, we carefully boarded the narrow dugout and Galo pole punted us through the still waters of Palmasola.

The air was filled with a cacophonous chorus of bird song from the shrieks of the gulls to the basso profundo of the cormorants. Literally hundreds of birds were wheeling through the skies and flitting from tree to tree. Within minutes we spotted a half dozen different species: white and black ibis, white, and tricolored herons, anhinga, cormorants and then we spotted a pair of the rare roseate spoonbill herons (ajoia ajaja), a magnificent pink against a blue sky.

Just above our heads, the intertwining branches were loaded with nests with eggs about to hatch and with chicks in various stages of development. Truly magical!

The close proximity of Barra (It's only about fifteen minutes away from the center of Puerto) and the intimate view of a rich ecosystem that can be found there make this a highly recommended tour for visitors.

Barra de Navidad is the second Barra, across the Colotepec River bridge on the coast highway towards Pochutla. Take the road into the center of town and keep going about 50 meters once it turns into a dirt road, until you see the signs for the hatchery.

The guide book is available at the hatchery, Temezcalli and El Sol de la Costa. Price: $150.00