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THIS MONTH

The great thing about the holiday season in Oaxaca is that, while the festive spirit is in full force, the Christmas commercial frenzy is kept in check.

Here on the Oaxacan coast, there just isn't time to spend a month on shopping and jingles. Consider: December begins with the traditional Zapotec Vela organized by residents originally from the Isthmus. Next there's the celebration for the Virgin of Juquila, a deeply-rooted cult that has made the Juquila sanctuary Oaxaca's equivalent of Lourdes.

Then it's time to honor the Virgin of Guadalupe, México's patron saint. And once that's out of the way, there's the annual party to celebrate the patron saint of Puerto Escondido (as well as the city of Oaxaca), the Virgin of Soledad. Only then is it time for Christmas, which is celebrated in its own special way in México.

So enjoy this wonderful time in this special corner of the world. El Sol de la Costa wishes you peace, joy and health for the holidays, the New Year and beyond.
Warren Sharpe, editor

This Month in Puerto

Thursday 2 - Sun 5
Vela Istmeña
The Isthmus of Tehuantepec is one of the most fascinating of the Seven Regions of the state of Oaxaca. It has distinctive geography and a vibrant Zapotec cultural tradition. It is not surprising, then, that when Istmeños leave their region, they carry a bit of the Isthmus with them.

Istmeño residents of Puerto Escondido keep their traditions alive will this traditional fiesta (Vela) every December. Dec. 2 and Dec. 3 features lively parades through the streets of town. But the main event is on Sat. Dec. 4 at the City Hall Esplanade, where the Fiesta Queen is crowned and regional specialties are served, then it's dancing to the wee hours.

This is highly recommended, if only to marvel at the gorgeous costumes of these proud women from the Isthmus. Thursday 2 Calenda the traditional parade to initiate a fiesta, with a brass band, the huge calenda puppets, rockets and colorful lanterns. Friday 3 Convite this parade includes colorful floats, from which the participants toss sweets and fruit to the onlookers. Saturday 4 Gala Dance, crowning of the fiesta queen & ceremony to present next year's fiesta mayordomos, or patrons
8 p.m. City Hall Esplanade

Monday 6 - Wed. 8
Fiesta of the Virgin of Juquila
Dec. 8 is the feast day for the Virgin of Juquila, whose sanctuaries nestle in the southern Sierra Madre Mountains in the town of Santa Catarina Juquila. It's about a three-hour drive from Puerto Escondido, a 30 Km detour off the highway to Oaxaca via Sola de Vega.

Juquila is Oaxaca's Lourdes, a place that attracts believers from all over México who make their pilgrimage to repay a blessing, to seek a cure for illness or to renew their faith.

At the beginning of this month thousands of faithful make their pilgrimage to this shrine on foot, bicycle, bus, truck, car and motorbike.

The town itself thrives on these visitors and is crammed with hotels and restaurants and store after store selling reliquary, statues and images of the doll-like icon on pendants, bottle openers, key chains and other souvenirs. The extreme commercialism of the Juquila phenomena is countered by the very obvious intensity of the faith, passion and joy manifested by the devotees who join the never-ending services in the town church and visit the nearby sanctuary of El Pedimento.

A crazy-quilt collage of cultural artifacts are deposited on the shrine here every day: bank notes, crutches, tiny representations of hearts, limbs, houses, cars, and other symbols representing hopes or thanks for health and prosperity.

The veneration of Our Lady of Juquila dates back to the early days of Christian evangelization in the 17th Century. The small statue of the Virgin is thought to be one of the first images carried through the area by Dominican missionaries, but legend has it that it just miraculously appeared one day in Amialtepec.

A wood and palm shrine was built for her there, but burned down. The image of the Virgin, was miraculously spared and moved to Juquila while the chapel was being rebuilt.

The Virgin was taken back to its original site, but it mysteriously reappeared in Juquila, where it has remained for the intervening centuries

Among the communities that will host fiestas to honor Juquila this week are Puerto's Colonia Aeropuerto and Hidalgo Tutupec, a community that lies just beyond Manialtepec Lagoon. (Fireworks and dancing on Tuesday 7th.)

Tuesday 7
Lost Child
The tradition of placing candles in front of homes and businesses comes from the biblical account of the three days that the child Jesus went missing in Jerusalem until he was found by his parents talking with the priests in Solomon's Temple. The streets are lit so the lost child (niño perdido) can find his way home.

Coincidentally, Hannukah, the Jewish Festival of Lights begins at sundown today.

Friday 10
Bobby Pulido
The son of the Tejano music legend, Roberto Pulido, Bobby is an accomplished singer, composer, arranger and producer. Known as "the golden boy , he is immensely popular on both sides of the border. Opening the show will be the Perla de Sureste Band.
9 p.m. Benito Juárez Sports Center
Fundraiser for the Lifeguards
A night of dancing, entertainment and raffles to benefit Puerto's Lifeguard Corps.
10 p.m. Tequila Sunrise

Saturday 11
Radiothon for the Cathedral of the Coast
In January, the Catholic authorities created a new diocese for the coast of Oaxaca and installed a bishop, Msgr. Eduardo Carmona Ortega. Now the task of actually building a cathedral in Puerto begins in earnest. This full day of fundraising, broadcast live on Radio Esmeralda 94.1 FM, will include auctions, food fair, bazaar and lots of entertainment. It takes place at the site for the future temple, 3rd north Street and Calle Pacifico, opposite the State Police station near Rinconada. They will be pleased to accept your donations of cash or merchandise.

Friday 10 - Sun 12
Fiesta of the Virgin of Guadalupe
México's national patron saint and Empress of the Americas. was the first religious icon recognized for veneration by the Catholic church in the New World. In December of 1531, according to legend, the Virgin appeared on several occasions to the Indian Juan Diego, finally leaving her image on a his tilma, or cloak.

Dec. 12 is her actual feast day; it's a national holiday; banks, government offices and some businesses will be closed.
Sunday 12
Children's Procession
Guadalupe is seen as a protector of the indigenous population, as symbolized by this delightful procession of children dressed in beautiful native costumes. The children gather at the Parque El Idilio square (1st north Street, between Av. Oaxaca and 1st west) and the procession begins at about 5 p.m. passing along Avenida Oaxaca to the church for a special mass to bless the children.

Thurs 16 - Sat 18 [soledad]
Fiesta of Our Lady of Soledad
The Fiestas of November notwithstanding, this is Puerto's official Annual Fair, in honor of its patron saint, the Virgin of La Soledad.

The legend of Soledad originates in the 17th century, when the city of Oaxaca was on the main trade route between Veracruz and the Pacific coast. According to this legend, a mule driver en route to Guatemala was surprised to find an extra mule bearing a strange wooden chest among his animals.

As he arrived at the monastery of Saint Sebastian the mule fell and resisted all efforts to get it on its feet.

Authorities were sent for and the mysterious box was opened, emitting a strong smell of gardenias. Inside was an image of the Virgin and a wooden icon of Christ.

A miracle was proclaimed and a temple dedicated to the Virgin of Soledad was erected at the site of the mule's demise. (You can visit the newly-restored Basilica of Soledad and its adjoining museum in the city of Oaxaca on Avenida Independencia).

Puerto's 3-day celebration of its patron saint features all the usual elements of the traditional fiesta on the coast: Lively processions, lots of music, the spectacular fireworks show known as the Castillo, but it culminates with a unique local custom that reflects Puerto's history as a fishing port: this is the ritual of taking the statue of the Virgin out to sea, accompanied by the entire local fishing fleet crammed with the faithful and accompanying musicians.

The candle-light calenda procession is particularly elaborate, with floats, hundreds of beautifully dressed madrinas bearing baskets of flowers and fruit, huge parade puppets and several bands.
Thursday 16
5:30 p.m. Convite Procession to invite everyone to participate in the fiesta activities.
8:30 p.m. Calenda candle-lit procession through the streets of town.
Friday 17
8:00 p.m. Cultural Program, culminating in the castillo, spectacular fireworks display.
City Hall Esplanade
Saturday 18
5:00 a.m. Mañanitas serenade to the patron saint.
6:00 a.m. Dawn Mass
4:00 p.m. Procession to the Sea, with a mass at the jetty, then the image of the Virgin will be taken out to sea, accompanied by hundreds of the faithful who will fill the entire fishing fleet.

Saturday 18
Grand Rodeo/Dance
Puerto's splendid rodeo arena, La Costeñita, celebrates its 3rd anniversary with a marathon line up of bull riding competition and live music including La Luz Roja de San Marcos, La Destructura Banda Cruceña, Fuerza Norteña and Poder Chatino. Plus raffles and door prizes, for just $50 pesos.
7 p.m. Plaza de Toros La Costeñita

Sat 18, Sun 19
7th Artists of Zicatela International Art Fair
This event is more than just a group show of local artists. The aim of its hosts at the Hotel Arcoiris and Galeria Diana is to generally promote art, creativity and cultural interaction in the community. Since this is a cosmopolitan resort, art is a means of transcending our language differences. Besides the exhibition and sale of finished artwork, there will be demonstrations of craft techniques, classes, workshops, music and dancing and special events. All activities are free of charge. For more info. call; 582-0432, 582-1494 or 582-2344
Saturday 18
10 a.m. Inauguration
Sunday 19
6p.m. Closing events
Hotel Arco Iris, Zicatela

Wednesday 21
First Day of Winter
it officially begins at 6:42 a.m. Aren't you glad you're here

Fri 24, Sat 25
Annual Fair in Barra de Navidad
There are two Barras here, this one is on the far side of the Colotepec River on the coast highway towards Pochutla.

Details were unavailable to us at press time on planned events, but the community will certain want to showcase their eco-preserve for nature tours.

The residents of Barra de Navidad (Christmas Sand Bar) formed a nonprofit organization to protect the nearby twin lagoons of Los Naranjos and Palmazola for eco-tourism.

Friday 24
Christmas Eve
Known as Noche Buena, "Good Night", this is when Christmas is traditionally celebrated in México with a family feast and Misa de Gallo, Midnight Mass.

Saturday 25
Merry Christmas

Tuesday 28
Innocent Children
The feast day that commemorates Herod's order to kill all new born boys in an attempt to kill the baby Jesus. It has become México's equivalent of April Fool's Day, when people play tricks and practical jokes on each other. Is it not the fate of innocents in this world to be made fools of?

Thurs, Jan 6
Day of Kings
The 12th Night of Christmas, Epiphany or Day the Kings, is the traditional day for Christmas gift giving in México. More on Christmas traditions

Read This Month's Feature Articles:
The Empress of México
Traditions of a Mexican Christmas



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