Food, Glorious Food

One of the reasons Puerto Escondido is a first rate tourist destination is that it scores well in providing one of the pleasures of vacationing: Great dining, good selection and wide variety of eating places. This issue is devoted to the pleasures of the palate. In particular, it is dedicated to the restaurants that have reached out to you through these pages and, by doing so, have made it possible to continue into our 10th year of publication.
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What's New

The newest star in Puerto's culinary firmament is Seis Palmas, at the Villas Carrizalillo: A beautiful palapa open to the gentle breezes and spectacular views of Carrizalillo Bay where you can enjoy fine International cuisine with nouvelle inspiration.

Dining Hot Spots

Seis Palmas underscores the growing importance of the Rinconada area as an attractive dining center. Los Vaqueros has just relocated there, where Pepe and his family delight meat lovers with those heaping plates of grilled arrachera, ribs and sausage. They join El Nene, a popular local spot for light lunches, dinners and cocktails - - grilled chicken, fish, chile con carne, great sandwiches - - and the delightful Los Tugas, named for the charming Portuguese couple, Elizabeth and Mario, who serve up a marvelously diverse array of internationally inspired dishes. The original Rinconada dining favorite is La Torre, where you can always find a great steak, fresh seafood and enjoy the daily specials: Thursday it's Asian food, Friday, ribs.

Zicatela South

El Cafecito (which also has a presence on Rinconada, of course) started it off when they built their new restaurant here. The same end of Zicatela Beach is also home to Sakura, an authentic and excellent Japanese restaurant, JK Oriental, a pleasant Chinese restaurant which offers all-you-can-eat buffets on Saturdays and Sundays. And with the opening of Sabor a Mar, Puerto culinary legend Carmen Herrera's new beachside seafood restaurant, Zicatela South became a true dining mecca.

That's not to overlook the other fine restaurants on Zicatela and Marinero: the beach-side Esmeralda and Colo Surf Beach, Los Tios, the fine Arcoiris, the eclectic Mangos, Flor de Maria, always a winner, the elegant Santa Fe, the remarkable Tabachin del Puerto.

Next month we'll tell you more about them and also focus on other parts of town such as the Adoquín, where Danny's Terrace has starred for so long and Pascal is causing a sensation with his wizardry at the grill. We'll also discuss the restaurants in the center of town, where you can sample real Oaxacan fare, such as La Hacienda and Las Margaritas. And we'll have a few new spots to tell you about.

This Month in Puerto

So the days preceding Lent were the last opportunity to enjoy the pleasures of the flesh and Carnaval evolved as a period of sanctioned excess, of carefree abandon and indulgence in which wild behavior was accepted as a necessary outlet.

The familiar colorful trappings of the festival: wild costumes, masked balls and parades, probably originated in Venice in the 12th Century. The spectacular samba parades and lavish costumes of Rio are the benchmark for Carnaval, but local variations take place throughout Latin America.

In Mexico, the tradition is strongest in Merida, Varacruz, Mazatlan and Cancún. Here in Puerto Escondido, the state government reintroduced Carnaval festivities some years ago, but last year's event was desultory, at best. This year Carnaval has been paired with a major surfing event which could prove to be just the formula necessary to rekindle the fun and excitement that Carnaval is all about.

Mexpipe Challenge Surf Carnaval will feature tournaments for men and for women. It is sanctioned by both the Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP) and the Mexican Surfing Federation (FMS) and will offer purses of 50,000 and 100,000 pesos. The lineup of activities, including rock concerts, fashion shows and other beach events, along with the traditional Carnaval parades and contests should make this an exceptional Carnaval. Get into it!

The program (All events take place on the south end of Zicatela, unless otherwise stated.)
Friday 16 7 p.m. Welcome Cocktail Party & Competitors' Meeting
Hotel Olas Altas
Saturday 17
7 a.m. Surfing
10 a.m. Official Opening Ceremony
11 a.m. Surfing
1 p.m. D.J. Music
3 p.m. Break Dance Competition
6 p.m. Big Screen Projections of day's session and D.J. music
7 p.m. Election of King and Queen Of Carnaval
City Hall Plaza
Sunday 18
7 a.m. Surfing
2 p.m. D.J. Music
4 p.m. Vieja Guardia, beach concert
5 p.m. Carnaval Parade starts on Zicatela Beach, goes along the Adoquín to end at City Hall Plaza.
6 p.m. Fashion Show: Lingerie by Apsara and Leonisa
7 p.m. Big Screen Projections of day's session and D.J. music
8 p.m. D.J. Electronic Party
Monday 19
7 a.m. Surf Final
1:30 p.m. Bikini Contest
2:30 p.m. Surf Awards Ceremony
7 p.m. Big Screen Projections of day's session and D.J. music
8 p.m. Contest Closing Party
9:30 p.m. Anti-Doping, beach concert
12:30 a.m. Mexpipe Fashion Show with Special Guests
Tuesday 20
6 p.m. Grand Carnival Parade starts on Zicatela Beach goes along the Adoquín to end at City Hall Plaza.
9 p.m. Costume and Batucadas Contest City Hall Plaza
10 p.m. Awards Ceremony & Closing Party Of Carnival
City Hall Plaza

Saturday 17
Puerto Blues 2007
The Garrett Mason Band
winner of the 2005 Juno Award and son of the legendary Dutch Mason.
8:30 p.m. Caracol Plaza

Wednesday 21
Ash Wednesday
Beginning of Lent, the 40-days of solemnity and reflection for Christians. The faithful attend mass to receive the mark of ashes on their foreheads. In the Mixtec town of Huazolotitlan (see issues Jan 2007, Aug. 2006) it is occasion for families from all over the community to come together for a day of traditional masked dances.

Saturday 24
Alejandra Robles
A charismatic beauty with a sensational voice, she has performed in her native Puerto to great acclaim. She has a new disc "La Malagueña" available at Universo Musical
8 p.m. VillaSol Beach Club, $75.00

Saturday 24 - Wed 28
Anniversary of Santa María Colotepec
Feb. 27 marks this neighboring town's 293rd anniversary as an independent county (municipio). Partial Anniversary Program:
Saturday 24
4 p.m. Cock Fights
6 p.m. Food Fair
8 p.m. Karate Exhibition
Sunday 25
4 p.m. Cock Fights
8 p.m. Mosaic of Mexican Dances, cultural troupe from Ocotlan..
Monday 26
6 p.m. Cultural Event by folkloric group from Jamiltepec
Tuesday 27
1 p.m. Community Meal & Gathering, Brass Bands and Folkloric Dancing
1:30 p.m. Civic Event on the history of Colotepec
4 p.m. Jaripeo bull-riding rodeo
9 p.m. Gala Anniversary Dance
Wednesday 28
5 p.m. Horse Races

Wednesday 28, Sat, March 3
Puerto Blues 2007
"Catfish" Keith The Grand Finale of Puerto Blues 2007. Catfish is a blues singer and songwriter best known for his extraordinary bottleneck slide guitar technique. An exciting country blues artist, he dishes up a satisfying gumbo of deep delta blues and American roots music.
8:30 p.m. Hotel Caracol Plaza

Thursday, March 8
International Women's Day

Saturday, March 10
"Trovados"
Eduardo Montero and Gil Sanchez return with their wide range of romantic favourites from folk, Mexican popular music and classical guitar.
8 p.m. VillaSol Beach Club, $75.00

Friday 16
Friday of the Good Samaritan
Part of the lent observances, this day marks the kindness of the Good Samaritan woman who gave Jesus water during his 40-day ordeal in the desert. It is the custom for people to set up stalls to offer flavored drinks (aguas de sabor, such as jamaica) to passersby.

Fourth Friday of Lent
San Andres Huaxpala celebrates the Day of Jesus the Nazarene with a bustling, colorful fiesta which transforms this Mixtec town, midway between Jamiltepec and Pinotepa Nacional, into a huge country fair and bazaar. Here is the home of Tata Chu, a dark skinned Christ greatly revered in the region.This long-established fair and market brings together not only the local Mixtec Indians from the coast but also Chatinos, Amuzgos and Mazatecas, each group sharing their space beneath the abundant shade of the ceiba trees, where they cook, sleep and socialize.

No formal program was available, but the festivities go on for several days. (Incidentally, Lent ends with Easter Week. Semana Santa begins this year with Palm Sunday, April 1.)

Read This Month's Feature Article:
Food in Puerto