THE MARVELS of Oaxaca are not only found in the grand monuments of its past, but are very much alive in its present Where else in the world can you find 32 different indigenous languages spoken in an area of just 95,364 km²? In fact, according to the 2000 census, over a third of Oaxaca's 3,438,000 citizens speak a native language. This linguistic and cultural diversity is matched by the bio and geographic diversity of Oaxaca's Seven Regions. And during the month of July all these riches are proudly displayed as the Oaxaqueñans celebrate their enduring traditions and the richness of their cultures.

The city of Oaxaca is always an interesting cradle of cultures, but during the weeks of La Guelaguetza it positively vibrates with sights, sounds, smells and excitement. The city center is crammed with arts and crafts, food stalls and parades of fabulously bedecked participants seem to take place constantly.

It is a reassuring sign that in this shrinking world of globalization, unique traditions and practices can survive.
- - Warren Sharpe, editor

This Month in Puerto

No seriously, in México every trade and profession has a designated day on which they are saluted and their contribution to society is acknowledged. Yes, even lawyers. Be nice.

Sunday 15
Secretary's Day
We all know who really runs things. Felicidades to all of them, especially to our right hand, Flor Alvarado, who unfortunately will be cutting back her time with us to pursue her cultural interests.

Sat 14 - Mon 16
Fiesta of Our Lady of Carmen
This saint's day is very important in the city of Oaxaca, where it marks the beginning of the famous Guelaguetza festival (see the story). Here on the coast, Nuestra Señora del Carmen is patron saint of Puerto's Colonia Libertad, Zapotalillo at Chacahua National Park and Candelaria, Pochutla.

Traditional saint's festivals on the coast include calendas, lively processions through the streets with brass bands, huge papier-mache puppets and candle-lit globes inviting participation in the festivities. There are fireworks displays and jaripeos (bull riding rodeo competitions), dances with live bands and sports events, including cockfights and horse races. (See El Sol, June, 2007)

Wednesday 18
Anniversary of the Death of Benito Juárez
One of the colossal figures of Méxican history, Juárez died on this day in 1872. An illiterate Zapotec Indian from Oaxaca who rose to become his nation's president, he is noted for his integrity, patriotism and commitment to social justice. Flags are flown at half-mast.

Fri 20 - Sun 22
Fiesta of Mary Magdalene
This is the feast day of the patron saint of Santa Maria Magdalena Tiltepec, close to Santos Reyes Nopala. This small Chatino village in the coffee-growing hill country is best known for the slow-fired pottery produced by the ladies of the village using techniques virtually unchanged in 2,000 years. They make simple pots, decorative figures and comales, the griddle used in Oaxacan cooking.

Monday 23, 30
"La Guelaguetza Mondays on the Hill"
The sights and sounds, the flavors and colors of all the regions of the state create an amazing mosaic of history, culture and tradition in the Oaxacan capital. See our story

Tue 24 - Thur 26
Fiesta of Saint James
St. James (Santiago) the Apostle was the patron saint of the Spanish conquistadors, so it isn't surprising that numerous important settlements throughout the empire were named for him.

The image of Santiago is always depicted on horseback. The cult of St. James is particularly prevalent in many Afro-Mestizo communities. Pinotepa Nacional, Santiago Llano Grande, Collantes and in the center of Afro culture, Cuajinicuilapa, just across the state line in Guerrero and boasts the only museum in Mexico dedicated to black history and culture, there's a huge celebration.

The veneration of St. James is also an important ceremonial occasion for fiestas in San Juan Lachao, Santos Reyes Nopala and in the charming Chatino community of Yaitepec, near Juquila.

Saturday 28
Alex Lora & el Tri
Alex Lora is Mexico's number one rock icon. He became a pioneer of rock en español in the late 1960s, playing along with Charlie Hauptvogel in a band called Avengers. In 1968, these two talented Latin rockers formed their own group, Three Souls in My Mind, playing a memorable performance at Avándaro's Festival de Rock y Ruedas, known as the Mexican Woodstock.

The band focused on English lyrics until the release of their first Spanish-language album in 1973, featuring songs such as "Que Viva El Rock and Roll" and "Oye Cantinero." In 1984, Charlie Hauptvogel and Alex Lora decided to go separate ways. While Charlie kept the group's name, Alex assembled El Tri, making its debut with the release of Simplemente El Tri. Still rockin' after all these years, you can catch these legends of mex rock in a special performance at the high capacity rodeo arena.(If you'd like to hear their sound first, Universal Musical carries their complete discography.)
9 p.m. Plaza del Toros La Costeñita
Advance Tickets $150.00

Monday 30
Monday on the Hill
San Pedro Tutútepec
This ancient settlement, which the invading Mixtecs founded as their capital on the coast (and about which we wrote extensively in El Sol, April, 2007) holds its own Guelaguetza celebration. The townspeople climb the sacred Hill of the Birds (after which the town is named) to dance to their traditional music, Fandango de Varitas. There are also dancers and musicians from several other indigenous communities from the region who will participate.

The road to Villa Tutútepec is just beyond the town of Santa Rosa de Lima at about Km 66 of the Coastal Highway towards Acapulco.

Anniversary of the Death of Father Hidalgo
The George Washington of México, Miguel Hidalgo y Costillo, a parish priest in Dolores, Guanajuato, launched the movement for independence from Spain. Captured by colonial forces, he was executed July 30, 1811.

Flags are flown at half-mast on all public buildings.

Aug. Sat 4, Sun 5
Annual Fair, Huaxpala
Huazpala, or San Andres Huazpaltepec, is an attractive Mixtec town that straddles the Coast Highway more or less midway between Jamiltepec and Pinotepa Nacional. This fiesta is in honor of Tata Ch'u, a black Jesus of Nazareth greatly revered by the Mixtecs of the coast.

According to legend, the figure of the black Christ, laboring under the weight of the cross, was found on the Lord's Rock, Piedra del Señor, a hill near the town's cemetery. August 5 is the anniversary of that discovery. There is chapel on the hill, but the main statue of Tata Ch'u is housed in the town church, a handsome structure with magnificent carved wooden doors.

An important Mixtec market town, its present Nahuatl name means Hill of the Lizards.

Sunday 5
State Elections
Oaxacans go to the polls today to choose their deputies for the state congress. As in all elections, the Dry Law will be in effect. This means that all bars must close by midnight Friday 3 and no alcoholic beverages may be sold or served until polls close at 8 p.m. Sunday. You've been warned.

Read This Month's Feature Articles:
On the Way to Oaxaca
la Guelaguetza