"The Mexican is familiar with death, jokes about it, caresses it, sleeps with it, celebrates it; it is one of his favorite toys and his most steadfast love. True, there is perhaps as much fear in his attitude as in that of others, but at least death is not hidden away."
- - Octavio Paz

October is a special time in Oaxaca, when the preparations and celebration of the Day of the Dead festivities begin. This festival is a veritable feast for all the senses. The markets are ablaze in color. The streets fill with women carrying flowers, the air redolent with their scent and the aroma of incense and the delicious dishes prepared for the occasion.

There's nothing morbid or grotesque about this festival. Far from being solemn or depressing, the Day of the Dead celebrations are highly festive in tone. They celebrate the continuity of life and strengthen the links to the past.

It is a remarkable time to be in the state of Oaxaca, to marvel at the creativity and spiritual strength of its people.

- - Warren Sharpe, editor

This Month in Puerto

Saturday 11
Miss Puerto Escondido
The pageant to select Señorita Puerto Escondido, 2008, who will preside over the activities during the Fiestas of November, as well as representing the city at civic events throughout the year.

It's open to any woman aged 16 to 25 who has lived on the coast for at least a year. Contest includes swimsuit, regional costume and evening gown segments.
9 p.m. City Hall Plaza

Sunday 12
Columbus Day
Here it's known as "Day of the Race", Día de la Raza, The Discovery of America is seen as an Encuentro, a meeting of two worlds, previously unknown to each other. The arrival of the Spaniards was disastrous for the indigenous peoples and their culture, but it gave birth to a new race - - the mestizo - - and a blending of Old World and New World traditions that changed both worlds forever.

Día de la Raza acknowledges the racial reality here; the majority of Mexico's 90 million people are mestizos.

Friday 17
Festival of Fandango
Villa Tutútepec The Fandango de Varitas is music and dance unique to Tutútepec and is performed at all important fiestas, especially in the festivals of the mayordomías. It is of pre-Hispanic origin, but it is now a mixture of indigenous, African and mestizo cultures. Tututepec, a place rich in history, was founded in 357 as Yucud Za'a (Bird Hill). It was a city of great importance and a capital of the Mixtecs, before the arrival of the Spanish in 1522. It was also the capital of Oaxaca state for 8 months. In 1912 it was named by decree: Villa de Tutútepec de Melchor Ocampo. The mayordomía is a tradition probably as old as the fandango. The first Friday of October is a mayordomía dedicated to the Virgin of the Rosary. The second Friday Fiesta of the month is in honor to Tata Chu, a dark-skinned representation of "Father Jesus" much revered by the Mixtecs of the coast. Other Friday fiestas in October honor las Santas Ánimas, the "holy souls". The saints' images are kept in the home of the mayordomo, the sponsor of the fiesta, at whose home much of the activities take place and who is responsible for hosting and paying for the fiesta. The mayordomía changes every two years. The fandango begins at noon with the biñuete when the children dance, holding flowers, in front of the saints' altar. The fandango continues every Friday until the Day of the Dead.

The dancers are dressed in white, which for the Mixtecs is a symbol of both life and death. It also signifies that we came from the clouds and are children of the rain.

The Fandango is performed by five or six musicians playing guitar, violin, cajón (a percussion instrument fashioned from a cedar box), charrasca, made from a seed pod and a cántaro (a kind of bass made from a clay pot).

Saturday 18
25th Festival of Chilenas
Santiago Jamiltepec
Chilena music is the sound and the soul of the coast and of its people. Chilenas provide the soundtrack for all important occasions, from baptisms to funerals.

In the towns and villages it's performed by a banda, the local brass band. A major change in Oaxaca's musical style came about with the arrival of military bands at the end of the 18th century. Oaxacans quickly took to the big brass horns, trumpets and such. Songs and marches were adapted, the new instruments adopted and a distinctive Oaxacan banda music emerged. As with most aspects of the culture in this region, chilenas are a mixture of native Indian, Spanish and African elements. Some experts believe that the predecessor to the chilena was the marinera peruana, a music genre related to the traditional cueca of Peru and Chile and that Chileans introduced the music when they were shipwrecked in Mexico on their way to the California Gold Rush. Some claim that "chilena" comes from the Zapotec chijena, which means "the sound made by instruments".

Chilena dances are part of the rich folkloric heritage of the Mixtec, Amuzgos and Chatino Indians of the state. Couples always dance apart, pañuelo, or handkerchief, held high in the right hand, feet stomping to the rhythm.

Chilena songs are built on an eight-syllable structure, with a chorus that alternates with sections that are purely instrumental. The lyrics speak of every day life, referring to love, women, elements of nature such as crops or animals, and anthems in praise of the hometown. Often there are risque with spoken lyrics about the sexual inadequacies of partners, two-timing husbands and other peccadillos. This is 25th edition of the Chilena Festival in the charming town of Santiago Jamiltepec, a song contest for original compositions, open to soloists, trios, bandas or any combination of musicians. Prizes range from $10,000 pesos for first place to $2,000 for fifth.

The Festival begins on Friday the 17th with an arts and cultural fair, While the Festival itself kicks off 7 p.m. in the Salon Social, Santiago Jamiltepec.

Friday 24
Festival of Fandango
Villa Tutútepec
See Friday 17

Sunday 26
Daylight Savings Time Ends
SET CLOCKS BACK ONE HOUR AT 2 A.M.

Wednesday 29
Poetry & Music
Barbara Schaffer and Jorge Guerra present an evening of poetry and performance art. Poetry open mic.
4 p.m.. Bar Aquí, Zicatela Beach

Friday 31 - Sat. Nov. 1
Day of the Dead/Halloween Fair
An eco-friendly Halloween and Day of the Dead celebration begins Friday at 6 p.m. with donkey races and a "palo encebado" (a greasy Maypole with a bag of goodies at the top). There will be music and dancing and plenty to eat and drink. There will also be contests for the best costumes.

On Saturday, the activities begin at 10 a.m. with the construction of the Day of the Dead altars. Awards will be given for the best traditional altar and for the most original. There will be a Kermesse (fair), donkey races at 6, and another chance to climb the greasy pole. Saturday night will feature dance contests for salsa, meringue and reggaeton.

The theme of this year's events is the environment. Plastic cups and plates will be discouraged, and ceramic cups and banana leaves will be provided. For more information call the Hotel Arco Iris (582-1494) or Hotel Ines (582-0416).
Zicatela beach, opposite Hotel Ines

Friday 31 - Sunday 2
Days of the Dead
One of the most important - and interesting - of Mexican fiestas,
See our stories

November

NOVEMBER is a special month in Puerto Escondido. The rains have ended, but the landscape is still lush and exuberant. The climate is pretty close to perfect. And, for the last 18 years, the town has hosted a program of events to show the world why this is the best tourist destination on the Pacific Coast.

The Fiestas of November 2008 will showcase the great cultural diversity of our region, the wealth of recreational attractions, the art, cuisine and the warmth and hospitality of its people.

Here are the dates for the major events, and that's just the beginning. There's much more to come. Stay tuned.

November 13 - 16
PXM Int'l Surf Tournament
US$50,000 in prizes will be awarded to the world's best surfers at this international in which 120 ASP professionals will compete. Sponsor Vans is also planning Skateboarding and Beach Volley Ball contests on these days with cash prizes plus rock concerts.

November 20 - 23
15th Coast Festival of Dance
The premier showcase for vibrant cultures on the Oaxacan coast.

November 21 - 23
20th International Sailfish Tournament
Bigger and better than ever with prizes totaling a million pesos.

Saturday, Nov. 1
10 a.m. Soccer Tournament
Benito Juarez stadium
9 p.m. Mrs. Costa Esmeralda Pageant
Agencia Municipal

Sunday, Nov. 2
10 a.m. Over 25 Soccer tournament
Benito Juarez stadium.

Thursday, Nov. 6
7 p.m. Writers' Panel
Agencia Municipal

Friday, Nov. 7
7 a.m. Surf Contest Eliminations
Playa Zicatela

Saturday, Nov. 8
7 a.m. Surf Elimination
Zicatela
10 a.m. Body Building Contest 2008
Bahía Principal
11 a.m. Baseball Tournament
Puerto Angelito field
9 p.m. Miss Costa Esmeralda Contest
Agencia Municipal

Sunday, Nov. 9
7 a.m. Surf Elimination
Playa Zicatela
8 a.m. Foot Race
El Idilio Park
11 a.m. Baseball Tournament
Puerto Angelito field
5 p.m. Miss Chiquitita Pageant
Agencia Municipal

Monday, Nov. 10
7 p.m. Chilenas of the Coast
Agencia Municipal

Tuesday, Nov. 11
7 p.m. Collegiate Dance Contest
Agencia Municipal

Read this Month's Featured Articles:
The Day of the Dead
Playing with Fire
Trips, Santiago Jamiltepec