NOT ALL OF US ARE BLESSED with the shopping gene. Fortunately shopping is a painless activity in Puerto. If you're a shopaholic, there are a wealth of treasures to discover. If, on the other hand, you are among the shopping-impaired, no problem. You don't have to go shopping; the shopping will come to you.

Just sit on the beach or a restaurant patio for a spell and you will be offered hammocks, jewelry, key rings, picture frames, carved animals, clothing and countless other things you never knew you wanted. There's some some neat stuff to be had out there, a wealth of treasures to discover, from local stores and vendors, or in the towns and villages that produce it. Treasure hunting is a great excuse for a road trip and there are fascinating communities nearby to explore.

So, in this season of giving, we offer you an overview of Oaxaca's amazing selections of arts and crafts. Hopefully it might help you discover some souvenirs to cherish and gifts for the folks back home that will be truly valued.

But, most importantly, El Sol de la Costa, on behalf of our friends and advertisers, wish you and yours peace, joy and health for the holidays, the New Year and beyond.
- - Warren Sharpe, Editor

This Month in Puerto

These visitations occurred on the hill of Tepeyac, site of one of the most important prehispanic religious centers in central Mexico. The temple on the hill at Tepeyac (today the actual site of the Basilica of Guadalupe where the image is housed) was dedicated to the worship of Tonantzin, "Our Mother". The religious authorities tried in vain to eradicate this tenacious cult, and perhaps decided instead to Christianize it in the form of Guadalupe.

The image of the Virgin of Guadalupe, Mexico's national patron saint, is one of the great religious enigmas. This rough handmade garment has lasted nearly 500 years. The normal lifespan for a rough cloak of agave fibre, would be 10 to 20 years.

The symbolism of this image in that nonliterate colonial society was powerful; it is said that this woman was greater than the Moon she stood upon and her blue-green cloak meant that she was an ambassador of the Sun God. The stars on her cloak, according to researchers, formed the constellations as they appeared in the sky during the Winter Solstice in 1531 (actually December 12, at 10:40 a.m.) At her waist was a black sash, as was worn by pregnant women at that time.

Most important of all, unlike the paintings and statues in the invaders' churches, this messenger from God had a coppery brown skin tone, not unlike that of the indigenous people. Guadalupe was embraced as the protector of the Indian and Mestizo masses under the harsh conditions of colonial rule. Her recognition by Pope John Paul II as "Mother of the Americas" and the canonization of Juan Diego in 2002 spread the veneration of La Guadalupana far beyond her ethnic and religious roots: artists around the world depict aspects of her in every medium. She represented justice in the recent immigrant protests in the U.S. and many non-Christian women have embraced her as a symbol of feminist empowerment.

Everyone is "en fiesta" for this beloved guardian figure. Of particular note, are the festivities at the small community of Totolapan, on the bank of the Colotepec River, also a close and easily accessible day trip.

Children's Procession
Her role as protector of the indigenous peoples of the continent is one that is still recognized today and symbolized by the delightful procession of children that takes place every year on December 12.

Dressed in native costumes, the little girls bedecked in ribbons and flowers, the boys in white campesino dress, sombreros and carbon-daubed mustaches, the children gather at Parque El Idilio (calle 1ª norte, a block off Av. Oaxaca.) The procession begins at about 5 p.m., passing along Av. Oaxaca to the church for a special children's mass.

Tuesday 16 - Thursday 18
Fiesta of Our Lady of Solitude
La Virgen de la Soledad is Puerto's official patron saint, as well as that of the city of Oaxaca. The miracle of La Soledad originates in the 17th century, when Oaxaca was on the main trade route between Veracruz and the Pacific coast. According to legend, a mule-teamster was puzzled to discover an extra animal, with a strange wooden chest, as part of his team.

As he arrived at the monastery of Saint Sebastian, the mule fell down and resisted all efforts to get it on its feet. Authorities were sent for and the mysterious box was opened, emitting a strong smell of gardenias. Inside was an image of the Virgin and a wooden icon of Christ.

A miracle was proclaimed and a temple dedicated to the Virgin of Soledad was erected at the site of the mule's demise. (You can visit the Basilica of Soledad and its adjoining museum in the city of Oaxaca.)

Puerto's celebration of its patron saint includes a unique local custom that reflects Puerto's history as a fishing port: this is the ritual of taking the statue of the Virgin out to sea. On the actual feast day, Dec, 18, the statue of La Soledad is carried from the church to the beach, hoisted aboard a boat and a flotilla comprising the entire fishing fleet, crammed with the faithful, cruises into the ocean, accompanied by lively music and rockets. The Program of Events was unavailable as we went to press, but based on years past, here's some of what you can expect to see:
Tuesday 16
8:30 p.m. Calenda this candle-lit procession is particularly elaborate, with floats, hundreds of beautifully dressed madrinas bearing baskets of flowers and fruit, huge parade puppets and several bands.
Wednesday 17
Noon Mass and community gathering with entertainment by various traditional brass bands.
8 p.m. Cultural Program, culminating in the Castillo, spectacular fireworks display.
City Hall Plaza
Thursday 18
5 a.m. Mañanitas serenade to the patron saint followed by a Dawn Mass
4 p.m. Procession to the Sea

Tuesday 16 - Wed 24
Las Posadas
Mexico's traditional Christmas festivities get underway on Dec. 16 with Las Posadas ("the Inns", or shelter, hospitality). These are nine consecutive days of candlelight processions and lively parties leading up to Noche Buena, Christmas Eve. In villages and urban neighborhoods throughout Mexico friends and neighbors gather to reenact the holy family's quest for lodging in Bethlehem.

The procession is often made up of children, headed by a diminutive Virgin María, perched on a burro, led by an equally tiny San José. They are followed by assorted angels, the Three Kings, and a host of shepherds, all with staffs and paper lanterns.

The parade of Santos Peregrinos (Holy Pilgrims) stops at designated homes in the neighborhood to sing a traditional litany, in which the Holy Family requests shelter for the night. Those waiting behind the closed doors turn them away. Finally, at the third house the party is admitted. Here a rosary will be held and then the partying begins, with piñatas for the kids, beer and mescal for the grown ups and lots of food and sweets.

The Posadas also have also come to include the office holiday party or just groups of friends and neighbors getting together to celebrate the season.

Sunday 21
First Day of Winter
it officially begins at 6:03 p.m. Aren't you glad you're here?

Wednesday 24
Christmas Eve
Known as Noche Buena, "Holy Night", this is when Christmas is traditionally celebrated in Mexico, when families gather for their Christmas feast, then perhaps attend Misa de Gallo, Midnight Mass.

Many of our friends whose support makes this publication possible are planning special holiday programs today. Share the love with them this season.

Wednesday 24, Thur 25
Annual Fair in Barra de Navidad
There are two Barras here, this is the one on the other side of the Colotepec River bridge on the coast highway towards Pochutla. Details were unavailable to us at press time on planned events, but cock fights, rodeos, dances and the usual line up of fiesta activities are normally offered.

Barra de Navidad ("Christmas Sand Bar") is always worth a quick visit to the ecological reserve of the lagoons of Los Naranjos and Palmazola, where you can explore the wealth of fauna and flora. Take a lagoon tour, or just drop by the Visitor Center, where iguanas, crocodiles and marine turtles are raised before release into their natural habitat. You might also see a coatimundi, possum or other creature that that the villages have brought in. A quick nature fix, just minutes from Puerto Escondido.

Friday 26
Jazz under the Stars
A welcome home event for Luis Gasca. Luis is such a familiar presence in Puerto, that it's easy to overlook the awesome talent that he possesses. A trumpet player, composer and conductor, Luis Gasca's career has embraced Jazz, Latin, Afro-Cuban and Rock and Roll. Since 1959, he has worked with countless musicians from Count Basie and Woody Herman to Mongo Santamaria, Herbie Hancock, Ray Charles, Janis Joplin and Santana.

This event is a tune up for the Puerto Blues Festival and a taste of what we can look forward to in March, when Luis, the Split Coconut and El Sol de la Costa will present the Puerto Escondido International Jazz Festival. More on this in coming issues. Meanwhile, don't miss this night of mellow, mellifluous and magical music featuring Luis Gasca and friends in a holiday celebration of harmony, happiness and hope.

Cover $50.00 at the door, $40.00 in advance, at the offices of El Sol de la Costa.
8 p.m. Split Coconut, Hotel Jardin Real, Bacocho.

Sunday 28
Innocent Children
The feast day that commemorates Herod's order to slay all new born boys in an attempt to kill the baby Jesus. It has become México's equivalent of April Fools Day, when people play tricks and practical jokes on each other. After all, Is it not the fate of innocents in this world to be taken advantage of? Don't take any wooden nickels!

Wed 31, Thursday, Jan 1
Happy 2009!
Have fun, but let's be careful out there, okay?

Tuesday, Jan 6
Day of the Kings
This is the day that people exchange Christmas gifts in México. Forget about Santa; it was the three kings or the Magi - Caspar, Melchior and Balthazar - who brought gifts to the manger-bound baby Jesus. Every kid you know will hope for something today.

Local authorities and charitable groups organize toy drives and parties to help put a smile on the faces of the neediest youngsters in their communities. And you can do your part to spread some of the joy: donate; buy some goodies and hand them out; adopt a school, family, a local cause. Commit a random act of kindness!

Jan. 6 is also referred to as Epiphany, the 12th - and supposedly the last - "Night of Christmas". But, not so fast: Christmas celebrations aren't quite over yet in México. One of the traditions of the Day of the Kings is the Rosca de Reyes. It's a ring-shaped cake, encrusted with glazed fruit, which contains a small plastic doll, representing well . . . you know. The custom at Día de los Reyes parties is that the person who gets that piece of cake which contains the doll must invite everyone at that party to his or her house on Feb. 2, Candlemas, La Candelaria, for tamales and more good cheer. But that's a story for a later issue.

Wed Jan 7, Sun Jan 11
Puerto Blues 2009
The return of everybody's favorite winter music festival evokes a bitter-sweet response in many of us. Because, while we happily anticipate this two-month celebration of exuberant blues, roots and rock music, there is a profound sense of sadness due to the absence of a dear friend, Gene "the sax machine" Stuart, a fixture for years on the local music scene, whose throaty riffs enriched the Blues Fest from its inception.

Puerto Blues 2009 pays tribute to Gene, whose image dominates the Festival poster: tenor sax, Hawaiian shirt, a Puerto moon - - that pretty much says it all. The 2009 edition will take place in two locales: the weekly program alternates between the usual Belmar Beach Club on Zicatela and the Split Coconut in Bacocho.

Week One: Jessica Carroll, South Saturn Delta, David Rotundo & Enrico Crivellaro

Newcomers South Saturn Delta lets loose with swampy funk jams, swinging over to rock, R & B and soul.
8 p.m. Belmar Beach Club

Wednesday, Jan 14
Puerto Blues 2009
Week Two: Mike Branton, David Rotundo, Enrico Crivellaro Mike Branton is a dynamic guitarist and singer who has played with the likes of Dr. John. Rockin' Blues to dance and groove to.
8 p.m. Split Coconut, Hotel Jardin Real, Bacocho
More on Puerto Blues next month.

QUICK TRIPS:
Santa María Totolapan
Small town which hosts a big Guadalupe fiesta. Take the camino a la bomba "road to the water pump", which meanders pleasantly along the bank of the Colotepec River. Easy bike, scooter or motor drive, plus frequent colectivo trucks.

Santos Reyes Nopala
Huge fiesta for their patron saints, the Three Wise Men, it's just an hour and a half from Puerto. Ancient center of Chatino culture: coffee plantations, stelae embedded in the walls of the City Hall, from A.D. 600 to 800, an 18th century church, a traditional market, great mountain and valley views.

Read This Month's Featured Articles:
Oaxaca & The Joy of Shopping
Confessions of a Shop-aholic
Your Dream House in Puerto Escondido
Junior Salvavidas
Plastic Recycling