CARNAVAL

So the days preceding Lent were the last opportunity to enjoy the pleasures of the flesh and Carnaval evolved as a period of sanctioned excess, of carefree abandon and indulgence in which wild behavior was accepted as a necessary outlet. The familiar colorful trappings of Carnival, with its wild costumes, masked balls and parades, probably originated in Venice in the 12th Century. But the use of masks and other disguises probably has roots in ancient pagan times when they were used for protection against evil at inauspicious times when malevolent spirits were thought to be about.

The spectacular samba parades and lavish costumes of Rio are the benchmark for Carnaval, but local variations take place throughout Latin America.

In Mexico, the tradition is strongest in Merida, Varacruz, Mazatlan and Cancún. Here in Puerto Escondido, Carnaval began in the '70s as a small celebration mainly organized by the gay community. Efforts to reestablish Carnaval here failed until the concept won the support of the state government, to boost tourism and give our visitors another option for partying. Unfortunately, it hasn't quite taken hold here yet; Most people just stand about and watch the parades, instead of actually participating. Most floats in recent years have been put together by local schools and without the enthusiastic participation of Puerto's gay community it would have been a rather sad affair.

But that's changing, Carnaval de la Costa is attracting attention from show business types and the glitterati in Mexico City. This year's celebrity Carnaval Queen will be Amanda Ruiz, an actress for TV Azteca.

It all begins on Saturday, Feb. 2nd with the election of the King of Joy, the Queen of the Carnaval, child King and Queen and the ceremony to "Burn Bad Humor."

On Sunday the 3rd, the first Grand Carnaval Parade winds its way through the streets of Puerto Escondido, with colorful floats, visiting folkloric groups, bands and dancers and comparsas.

The comparsa is a group of friends, colleagues or students who create a set of costumes and choreograph a routine to participate in Carnaval. The comparsas and the floats will be reviewed by a team of judges who will award prizes for the winners.

On Monday the 4th, there will be special programs of entertainment at City Hall Plaza. Then on Tuesday, Feb. 5th, Shrove Tuesday or Mardi Gras, comes the climax of Carnaval. This is the night of the second Grand Parade, followed by the awards ceremony for winners of the contests and the ceremony to "Bury Juan Carnaval", complete with grieving widows; hey, fun's over now! There will be fireworks and dancing 'til the wee hours.

The following day, Ash Wednesday mark's the beginning of Lent; 40 days of austerity, abstinence and spiritual reflection. So the idea is to have fun: find a costume and get with the program.

Carnaval Beyond Puerto

In villages such as San Juan Colorado, Santa María Huazolotitlan, everybody gathers during the days of Carnaval to watch traditional masked dances such as The Badger's Dance, the Jawbone Dance among others.

All of these dances are very satirical in nature, breaking social and sexual taboos and taking shots at the status quo; even the local authorities and village elders have to put up with taunting and teasing without complaint. The pantomime aspects and themes of these dances might seem naive, but they are very meaningful to the locals, because they often allude to rumors and gossip about neighbors, exposing peccadillos and even naming people who may have committed crimes.

In Pinotepa de Don Luis, where Mixtec is heard much more often than Spanish. The annual festival for the patron saint, San Sebastián, takes place towards the end of January, but it is during Carnaval that the most elaborate dances are performed: the Dove Dance, the Tiger Dance and especially the Badger Dance.

The Dance of the Badger (La Danza del Tejórones) is elaborately costumed with a cast of characters that include the Badger, his Woman, the evil Tiger, the unfortunate Cow, the Dog and the Hunter. It is exuberant, bawdy and you can count on being targeted and forced to participate if you attend.

For Carnaval in San Juan Colorado, the Old Badgers Dance is performed. Music is provided by two violinists, a guitarist and two drummers.

Santa Maria Huazolotitlán is best known for its Dance of the Little Masks. It is thought to date back to the French invasion, when the French were driven out the Indians celebrated by staging a grotesque caricature of French, ridiculing the way they danced, their behavior and appearance. This parody, with its pink-faced masks, became a regional tradition. It's known as The Jawbone dance in San Juan Colorado and Dance of the Dandy in Jamiltepec.

These vibrant indigenous communities have conserved their identity and cultural heritage through these dances and through the ancient techniques of their arts and crafts. But, given the onslaught of global mass culture, these traditions are under attack; many of the older people still wear traditional dress, but few of the young can be seen in huipil and pozahuanco.

Now is the time to experience these places.