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Cooking Green, White & Red

[chiles nogadas]

Showing the Colors

Food plays an important role in Mexican celebrations. One of the culinary traditions for the September Fiestas is preparing dishes that reflect the colors of the national flag. It's a tradition that goes back to 1821, when the good burghers of Pueblo threw a banquet for the would-be emperor Agustín de Inturbide.

According to culinary legend, among the dishes served was Chiles en Nogada, typical of the colorful and delicious recipes to celebrate Mexico's national month.

You get the idea: tomatoes, chiles, bell peppers, avocado, nopalitos, celery, green beans, rice, onion and cream, watermelon -- the green, red & white combinations are limitless.

Flag Rice

(Serves 8)

To prepare all three kinds of rice in this tricolor dish, begin with the same technique: soak the rice in very hot water for 15 minutes; then drain it, rinse it in cold water, drain it again. Saute the rice in fat or oil for about a minute, add the onions and garlic. Stir until the grains separate and the rice sounds like sand, then add the other ingredients.

Green Rice

Ingredients:

Add the pureed chiles and cook until thickened. Add the remaining ingredients and when liquid comes to a boil, lower heat, simmer until tender (about 20 minutes). [flagrice]

White Rice

Ingredients:

Add the lime juice and chicken broth. Bring to a boil, lower heat, simmer until tender (about 20 minutes).

Red Rice

Ingredients:

Add the puree and saute until it thickens. Add remaining ingredients. When mixture comes to a boil, cover, reduce heat and simmer until tender (20 minutes or so). Discard parsley and celery before serving.
Note: You can add more color to the green rice with peas or green beans; almonds for the white rice; carrots or beets to the red.

Stuffed Chiles in Walnut Sauce

Ingredients: Picadillo Stuffing Walnut Sauce Preparation:

Rinse chiles and pat dry. Spoon some of the filling inside each, careful not to overstuff. Spread flour on a plate and coat each chile lightly. Beat egg whites until stiff. Beat yolks with salt. Gently fold yolks and white to make batter. Dip chiles into batter to coat completely.

Heat 1/2 inch of oil in heavy skillet and fry chiles until lightly browned. Drain, Dip chiles in walnut sauce until completely covered. Arrange on platter, cover with more sauce and sprinkle with pomegranate seeds. To make filling: Place pork, quartered onion and garlic in a pan. Cover with water and boil for 20 minutes. Drain, set aside, discarding onion and garlic. Heat the butter in large skillet and saute chopped onion until translucent. Add tomato puree and cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the meat, fruit citron, almonds, sugar and salt and pepper to taste. Cook over medium heat for another 10 minutes. To make walnut sauce: Puree all ingredients. If sauce is too thick, add more cream.

BEVERAGES:

Prepare three traditional "aguas frescas": Jamaica (very red), Horchata (white) and Limón (takes care of the green). Serve in glass pitchers with lots of ice and you've got delicious refreshment plus a pleasing tricolor design element for the table.

Flag Enchiladas

[Flag Enchiladas] (Serves 4) Ingredients: The Green Sauce Blend the ingredients with a little water and heat until it begins to thicken a little, add salt and pepper to taste.

The Red Sauce

Remove skin of tomatoes and blend with other ingredients (add water if necessary). Season with a little salt and a pinch of cumin and heat until mixture begins to thicken.

Using warm tortillas, wrap the chicken into tacos, fry them lightly in a little oil, then arrange on a platter. Cover half in the green salsa and the other with the red.

For the white: decorate with cream, slices of cheese and onion. [brioche des rois]

MORE COLOR:

There are countless variations of this dish. For example, Tabachin del Puerto serves a vegetarian Enchiladas Bandera filled with Huixtlocoche (a prized corn fungus), asparagus and tender young ears of corn. The tricolor element is provided by the garnish: green slices of avocado, white cream and red bell pepper.

APPETIZER:

Nopalito Salad is another traditional dish served during the September celebrations. The tender green slices of the nopal cactus, the vibrant red of fresh ripe tomato and the chopped onions certainly conform to the chromatic theme of the month, plus it's healthy and delicious.



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