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Cooking Green, White & Red
Showing the Colors
Food plays an important role in Mexican celebrations. One of the culinary
traditions for the September Fiestas is preparing dishes that reflect the
colors of the national flag. It's a tradition that goes back to 1821, when
the good burghers of Pueblo threw a banquet for the would-be emperor Agustín
de Inturbide.
According to culinary legend, among the dishes served was Chiles en
Nogada, typical of the colorful and delicious recipes to celebrate Mexico's
national month.
You get the idea: tomatoes, chiles, bell peppers, avocado, nopalitos,
celery, green beans, rice, onion and cream, watermelon -- the green, red &
white combinations are limitless.
Flag Rice
(Serves 8)
To prepare all three kinds of rice in this tricolor
dish, begin with the
same technique: soak the rice in very hot water for 15 minutes; then drain
it, rinse it in cold water, drain it again. Saute the rice in fat or oil for
about a minute, add the onions and garlic. Stir until the grains separate
and the rice sounds like sand, then add the other ingredients.
Green Rice
Ingredients:
- 1 cup of rice
- 2 tbsps. of lard or 3 tbsps. of corn oil
- 1/2 onion, finely diced
- 3 poblanos chiles deveined and pureed with 1/4 of water, then strained
- 1 1/3 cup of chicken broth
- 1/4 cilantro chopped
- Juice of 1/2 lime
- salt & pepper to taste
Add the pureed chiles and cook until thickened. Add the remaining
ingredients and when liquid comes to a boil, lower heat, simmer until tender
(about 20 minutes).
White Rice
Ingredients:
- 1 cup of rice
- 2 tbsps. of lard or 3 tbsps. of corn oil
- 1/2 onion, grated
- 1 garlic clove
- Juice of 1/2 lime
- 2 cups chicken broth
- salt & pepper to taste
Add the lime juice and chicken broth. Bring to a boil, lower heat, simmer
until tender (about 20 minutes).
Red Rice
Ingredients:
- 1 cup of rice
- 2 tbsps. lard or 3 tbsps. corn oil
- 1 large tomato pureed with 1/2 onion, garlic, salt and pepper
- 1 1/3 cup chicken broth
- Juice of 1/2 lime
- 1 celery stalk
- 1 sprig of parsley
- salt & pepper to taste
Add the puree and saute until it thickens. Add remaining ingredients. When
mixture comes to a boil, cover, reduce heat and simmer until tender (20
minutes or so). Discard parsley and celery before serving.
Note: You can add more color to the green rice with peas or green beans;
almonds for the white rice; carrots or beets to the red.
Stuffed Chiles in Walnut Sauce
Ingredients:
- 12 poblano chiles, roasted, seeded and deveined
- 6 eggs, separated
- flour
- 1 tsp. salt
- corn oil
- 3 pomegranates, seeded
Picadillo Stuffing
- 2 pounds ground pork
- 1 onion, quartered
- 2 garlic cloves
- 8 tbsps. butter
- 1 medium onion, finely chopped
- 4 cups tomato puree
- 1 apple, finely chopped
- 2 peaches, peeled and chopped
- 2 plaintains, peeled and chopped
- 1/4 cup candied citron, chopped
- 1/4 cup raisins
- 1/2 cup blanched almonds chopped
- 1 tbsp. sugar
- salt and pepper to taste
Walnut Sauce
- 2 cups walnuts halves
- 1/2 cup blanched almonds
- 1 cup queso fresco (or feta)
- 1/2 cup half-and half
- 1/4 cup sherry
- 1 tsp salt
Preparation:
Rinse chiles and pat dry. Spoon some of the filling inside each, careful not
to overstuff. Spread flour on a plate and coat each chile lightly. Beat egg
whites until stiff. Beat yolks with salt. Gently fold yolks and white to
make batter. Dip chiles into batter to coat completely.
Heat 1/2 inch of oil in heavy skillet and fry chiles until lightly browned.
Drain, Dip chiles in walnut sauce until completely covered. Arrange on
platter, cover with more sauce and sprinkle with pomegranate seeds.
To make filling: Place pork, quartered onion and garlic in a pan. Cover with
water and boil for 20 minutes. Drain, set aside, discarding onion and
garlic. Heat the butter in large skillet and saute chopped onion until
translucent. Add tomato puree and cook for 10 minutes, stirring
occasionally. Add the meat, fruit citron, almonds, sugar and salt and pepper
to taste. Cook over medium heat for another 10 minutes.
To make walnut sauce: Puree all ingredients. If sauce is too thick, add more
cream.
BEVERAGES:
Prepare three traditional "aguas frescas":
Jamaica (very red),
Horchata (white) and
Limón (takes care of the green).
Serve in glass pitchers with lots of ice and you've got delicious refreshment plus a
pleasing tricolor design element for the table.
Flag Enchiladas
(Serves 4)
Ingredients:
- 1/4 kg corn tortillas
- 2 chicken breasts, cooked and chopped
- 200 g grated cheese, such as Manchego or Queso Fresco which is best crumbled
- 1/4 cream, half-and half
The Green Sauce
- 1/2 kg green tomatoes
- 4 chiles serranos
- handful of cilantro
- 2 garlic cloves
- 1/4 medium sized onion
Blend the ingredients with a little water and heat until it begins to
thicken a little, add salt and pepper to taste.
The Red Sauce
- 3 large tomatoes
- 3 chiles de árbol, parboiled and with seeds and veins removed
- 1/4 onion
- 2 garlic cloves
Remove skin of tomatoes and blend with other ingredients (add water if
necessary). Season with a little salt and a pinch of cumin and heat until
mixture begins to thicken.
Using warm tortillas, wrap the chicken into tacos, fry them lightly in a
little oil, then arrange on a platter. Cover half in the green salsa and the
other with the red.
For the white: decorate with cream, slices of cheese and onion.
MORE COLOR:
There are countless variations of this dish. For example,
Tabachin del Puerto serves a vegetarian Enchiladas Bandera filled with
Huixtlocoche (a prized corn fungus), asparagus and tender young ears of
corn. The tricolor element is provided by the garnish: green slices of
avocado, white cream and red bell pepper.
APPETIZER:
Nopalito Salad is another traditional dish served during the
September celebrations. The tender green slices of the nopal cactus, the
vibrant red of fresh ripe tomato and the chopped onions certainly conform to
the chromatic theme of the month, plus it's healthy and delicious.
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