Annual Fiesta in Huazolotitlan

These vibrant communities have endured by successfully passing down through the generations the ancient techniques of their arts and crafts. Because they have maintained a traditional pattern of authority vested in a consensus of the elders - the passers of the flame of knowledge - important ceremonial activities, beliefs and practices are continued.

Huazolotitlan (Santa María Huazatlan, which means Place of the Wild Turkeys, from huexlotl - turkey and titlán - place of, but mostly just known as Huazolo (Wa-Zo-Lo), is a perfect case in point. And this month it holds one of its most important fiestas to honor its Patron Saint, St. Mary of the Ascension -- although it's all really about the Guadulupana.

The town essentially has two parallel authorities: The elected civic Municipal President (currently a woman, incidentally - Isabel Herrera Molina) and the Council who are responsible for providing basic services and interacting with state and federal government. But there is also a ceremonial authority: the Alcalde or mayor and the Mandones, the leaders chosen by an assembly of elders (all formermandones, alcaldes or mayordomos) to serve for a year.

Their primary responsibility is maintaining the old ways. including choosing the mayordomos to sponsor the major fiestas, because it is through the fiestas the traditions are preserved. It is a great honor, but an awesome responsibility to be chosen mayordomo: He must arrange the decoration of the church, hire musicians and make sure that there is enough food for everyone (including visitors) who attends.

A successful mayordomo will earn his place as a respected and prominent figure in his community.The most important element of these fiestas is dance. Traditional dances are far more than a public amusement, they have a profoundly magical and religious meaning. Indeed the dances go on for hours, starting at dawn on the first days of the fiesta.

(However the dances do include elements of satire and pantomime, in which mischievous, clown-like characters called tejerones, badgers , poke fun at authority figures and make not-so-veiled allusions to local scandals, gossip and the like, much to the delight of the audience.)

The Chareos Dance dominates the August Fiesta. This dance represents a battle between Moors or Pilates , and the Christians, led by James the Apostle whose costume incorporates a white hobby horse, accompanied by a niño, (representing the child Jesus?) and two pages.

The opposing teams of dancers led by their red or white flags (it can be difficult figuring out which side is which), stage a mock battle with their colorful feather and ribbon bedecked costumes and machetes. Drums and flutes are the only instruments that accompany the dancers.

The peak of activity will be on Aug. 14, with the Calenda procession, fireworks and the performance of two other dances: The Turtle Dance, most closely associated with the neighboring municipality of José Maria Morelos Mixtec, where a huge majority is of African descent. The dance ridicules Spanish rule and depicts the abuse and exploitation of black slaves who were exploited during the Colonial Period.

Central characters include Don Pancho, a black foreman. a trusted a trusted lackey of the master and who ill-treats his fellow slaves and La Minga, his wife, who is a flighty coquette constantly flirting with the other men on the hacienda, to Pancho's exasperating rage.

You can also see the Dance of the Little Masks, thought to date back to the French invasion. After the French defeat, the Indians celebrated by staging a grotesque caricature of the dandified foreigners, ridiculing the way they danced, their behavior and appearance.

This parody, with its little pink-faced masks and conical beribonned hats, became a regional tradition and is performed with variations in many of the indigenous towns on the coast.

The people of Huazolo are warm and friendly to outsiders. They are proud of their culture and crafts and pleased to share this with others. Experience these societies now, because the onslaught of modernity will inevitably prevail and these treasures will be lost for ever.