Day-trippin' in Huazolo

ONE SUMMER I READ an article in El Sol de la Costa about the Mixtec mask-makers of Huazolotitlan, so I decided to visit this town during their August Fiesta Patronal. It was one of the best day trips I have taken in all of my years in Puerto Escondido, it's a pleasant, 3 hour drive west along the Coastal Highway. (The turn off to Huazolotitlan, is just before you leave Huazpaltepec.)

We arrived at the municipal plaza around noon, to watch the Chareo dancers perform their re-enactment of an ancient battle between the Moors and the Christians, or maybe it was the Spaniards and the Mixtecs, it depends on who you ask, in any case, it was the eternal battle between good and evil.

We sat watching the dancers surrounded by children and elderly women wearing long wrap skirts called enaguas (also known also as pozohuancos) which are woven by hand on back-strap looms and died shades of purple from the shell of a mollusk that is harvested once a year in the bays near Huatulco.

At one time, older Mixtec women went topless. Now, in most communities, they wear aprons for modesty. Sadly the traditional dress is being abandoned by the younger generation, all the more reason to experience these special places while we have the opportunity.

After watching the dancers for some time (the dances can go on for hours), we went off in search of Che Luna, one of the most famous mask-makers of this town. We were finally led to his hill-side home where he received us graciously and explained to us the art of mask-making, his apprenticeship with a famous mask carver and his struggle to keep this tradition alive by passing it onto his sons.

His wife spoke almost no Spanish but, I asked her, through her children, about her beautiful enagua as I wanted to buy one. While she had none for sale, she offered to dress me in traditional dress and she took me into her home, where I was summarily disrobed, wrapped in an enagua, had my hair put up in their traditional style and offered a choice of aprons. I emerged, totally transformed as a Mixtec princess. I purchased several masks from Che Luna, including some rare older masks, admired the finely embroidered huipiles made by his daughter, and I promised to look up his son when I returned to New York City to see if I could help him become legal in the US so that he could visit his family and hometown once more.

As we headed down the hill, it struck me how sad it is that we have these indigenous treasures so close to Puerto, but so few tourists visit them for a truly magical encounter or support their traditional art forms so that these people do not have to leave their homes and heritage in search of a living in El Norte.

Since then, I have returned to Huazo every August and also in Spring during Carnival, their other big festival. I have been invited to dine with the mayordomos and elders of this ancient Mixtec town, and I have always been received warmly.

I urge visitors to Puerto to visit Huazolotitlan, an easy day trip from town. Support their art and traditions. You'll find colorful jaguar and other animal masks, magnificent huipiles and experience an encounter that might touch your life forever.

Patrice Perillie is a long time resident of Puerto Escondido and an immigration lawyer with offices in Manhattan.
She can be reached at: patriceperillieattorneyatlaw@hotmail.com