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Mango Mania

ONE OF THE pleasures of this season is the abundance of mangos, which begin to flood the markets this month. This delicious tropical fruit with its rich coloring, oval shape and succulent flesh can be messy to eat, thanks to that big pit inside, But, it is delicious.

Some describe its flavor as like a resiny peach. Others say it tastes like an apricot crossed with a pineapple. You decide.

The mango originated in Southeast Asia, where it has been grown for over 4,000 years. Its name comes from the Tamil mangay. It was the Portuguese who brought them from India to East Africa, then to Brazil, where the fruit spread throughout the Caribbean, arriving in México in the early 19th Century.

There are dozens of varieties of the "King of Fruit": the tiny niños, yellowish criollos, the manila, manzano, and some which can weigh up to 2 kilos each.

People are crazy about them. Every spring and summer "mangomania" takes hold, despite the fact that the trees are drooping with them. And there might be good reason for this beyond their great taste. Mangos are rich in vitamins, minerals (especially potassium), anti-oxidants (beta-carotene) and fiber. They also contain an enzyme with stomach soothing properties similar to papain found in papayas. So perhaps it's quite natural to crave those mangos.

(The leaves and branches of the mango tree, however, are moderately toxic. Workers who harvest the fruit often suffer severe skin rashes.)

The easiest way to free the flesh is to slice though the fruit on both sides of the flat pit and parallel to it, then cut through the flesh just to the skin, both vertically and horizontally. Over a bowl, turn the skin back and run the knife between the skin and the flesh to release the cubes of fruit. Repeat with the other half, then cut what you can from the flesh closest to the pit.

Here a couple of ways you can enjoy this versatile fruit:

Doña Mari's Mango Salsa

Ingredients:

Cut the mango flesh into pieces, add diced red onion, diced mint and the jalapeños (remove the seeds and veins, then wash your hands well afterwards, that's where those fiery chili oils are concentrated). Mix it all together and add lime juice and let it sit a spell.


Mango Chutney

Ingredients:

Mix all ingredients in a very large pot. Cover and slowly bring to a boil. Uncover and simmer, stirring occasionally for 1-1 1/2 hour until thick. Stir more often as it thickens. Ladle boiling mixture into sterilized jars, filling to within 1/8" from the top. Wipe rims and seal. When cool, check seals. Store in a cool, dark dry place. Let stand 1 month before serving.

Chicatanas, Anyone?

There's a local delicacy that can only be enjoyed this month. Just after the first rain this month, the Chicatanes, a huge flying ant of the Atte Mexicana family, leave their nests in droves. They are attracted to the light and sometimes you'll find swarms of the dying on pour patio or yard. Locals hunt for them on the beaches. The heads and wings are removed and they are either roasted, salted and chilied and eaten as an appetizer or cooked in a sauce of chili pajarito or chile de agua.


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