The procession is headed by a diminutive Virgin María, often perched on a live burro, led by a equally tiny San José. They are followed by other children portraying angels, the Santos Reyes (Three Kings), and a host of pastores y pastoras (shepherds and shepherdesses), all usually decked out in colorful handmade costumes and carrying brightly decorated báculos (walking staffs) or faroles (paper lanterns).
The parade of Santos Peregrinos (Holy Pilgrims) stops at designated homes to sing a traditional litany by which the Holy Family requests shelter for the night and those waiting behind the closed door turn them away.
The Posadas also have also come to include the office holiday party or just groups of friends and neighbors getting together.
![[Poinsetta]](images/covershot18.jpeg "Poinsetta")
The plant was the obsession of Dr. Joel Poinsett, the first ambassador of the United States to Mexico, who gave it his name and introduced it to the rest of the world
The ancients, who considered all flowers to be divine gifts of the Gods, knew this plant as Cuetlaxochitl, which means the flower of leather petals. This star-shaped, red, winter-flowering plant was a special favorite long before the arrival of Columbus.
The Nochebuena was considered by the Aztecs to be a symbol of the new life earned by the warriors who died in battle. As hummingbirds and butterflies, they returned to earth to sip the nectar of the Poinsettia.
Besides tamales, an essential for any Oaxacan celebration, other traditional seasonal dishes include bacalao (dried fish), bunuelos (sweet fritters), the delicious hominy soup known as pozole, atole (a corn gruel drink), horchata (the same made with rice), fruit punches (ponches) and a kind of rice pudding known as Arroz a la Mexicana.
But the supreme Christmas dish, just as in Canada, the U.S. and Europe is turkey. In Spanish it's called pavo, but here in México, it's known as guajolote, a bird that is native to the Americas, and the only fowl domesticated by the Aztecs. See a recipe for turkey mole, a favorite dish for yuletide on the Oaxacan coast.
![[pinata]](images/pinata.jpeg "Piñata")
Although the Piñata originated in China, the traditional party
favorite of Mexican children travelled along the trade routes to Italy
where it was named pigata or pineapple in Italian, then to Spain in
time to be taken to the new world by the missionaries.
The serious symbolism of this simple party toy is very typical of Mexico as there is always more to understand than appears on the surface. The decorated clay pot represents Satan who often wears an attractive mask to hide his true nature. The most traditional style of Piñata is a star with seven points with streamers. These cones represent the seven deadly sins, and the breaking of the Piñata with the ensuing shower of sweets and fruits and nuts vividly shows the triumph of good over evil and the unknown joys and rewards which will be given in heaven to the good and faithful.
![[eat me]](images/brioche_des_rois.jpeg "Rosca de Reyes")
But the Christmas celebrations aren't quite over yet; one of the
traditions of day is the sharing of the Rosca de Reyes, a rich, sweet
egg bread that contains a small plastic doll. According to the custom,
whomever receives the piece of bread containing the doll must host a
party on Candlemas (La Candelaria) on Feb. 2.
The Three Kings are patron saints of Santos Reyes Nopala, a scant hour and a half from Puerto Escondido. Nopala's annual fiesta was held takes place now, but there always seems to be something going on in here. The narrow streets suddenly fill with people following the ubiquitous brass band in some form of religious observation or celebration.
It is situated on a fortress-like hilltop surrounded by even loftier peaks thick with trees. Coffee is a staple of the economy here, which has helped Nopala maintain its scenic beauty. The coffee bushes need the shade of larger trees, so the area remains heavily wooded.
The views are spectacular: steep, narrow alleyways drop away to reveal mosaics of tiled roofs and patios (where the coffee beans are sun dried) and the river valley, dotted with hillocks and the mountains. It's a great town to explore: the churches, the market (and small restaurants where you can sometimes find venison, quail or crayfish on the menu.
You can see archeological remains of the ancient culture in the municipal palace, the kiosk in the main plaza, and in some private homes. These stelae, large stone carvings, date from around 600 to 800 AD and are believed to be funereal monuments to great chiefs and priests.
The Nopaltecos have shown a remarkable resiliency in maintaining their
culture and traditions, perhaps best symbolized by the ancient stone
carving now visible in a wall of the old church, but hidden for
centuries behind a Christian altar.