- By Alvin Starkman -
VISITORS TO THE CITY of Oaxaca, have easy access to information about a plethora of restaurants in the capital, many of which have reputations deserving of rave commentaries , while some have gained undeserved, widespread praise.
No need to comment about high-end Casa Oaxaca, or reliables La Olla and La Biznaga - - the latter with its new-found realization that service is king. You currently can't go wrong with any of the three, and the proof is the fact that locals frequent each one. If you want to experience what keeps the bellies of Oaxacans filled, year in and year out, try any of these eateries:
Los Almendros: It's known for its traditional Oaxacan fare, congenial
hosts, cheap, good botanas, and Sunday barbacoa (barbecued borrego or
mutton). If you arrive for comida much after 2 pm, they might be out
of the Sunday special, but nothing you order should disappoint. Try
the foil-wrapped baked ribs, any day.
(3ra Priv. de Almendros #109, Reforma; 515-2863)
Veracruz: It's where Oaxacans go when they want good seafood. The
food is as fresh as you'll find on the coast (owners Leo and Rosita
frequently travel to the Caribbean to bring in their fish and
seafood). The proprietors are almost always on hand, their dishes are
uniquely Veracruz, and they serve a house mezcal hard to match. It's
worth the taxi fare to travel about 5 km from downtown to get there.
(Margen Izq. Del Rio Atoyac #250, El Pilar; 512-7610)
El Mirador: This landmark has one of the two most spectacular vistas
of the city (the other being the bar at Hotel Victoria), located on
the Cerro del Fortín, overlooking the city below. The downstairs bar
and lounge open on weekends with live music playing cumbia, salsa and
merengue. Try the parrillada, a hibachi which arrives at your table
sizzling hot with melted cheeses, grilled veggies and an assortment of
meats; and a tlayuda with cecina, tasajo or vegetarian style. For
those with a penchant for beer, there's always the "yarda de cerveza".
(Carr. Int'l. km 3, S/N, Cerro del Fortín; 516-5820)
Fonda Mexicana: Roberto and Clara serve a great 40
peso comida corrida which can include one of their daily mole specials. Service
is fast (and yes, we're talking Oaxaca). Your meal includes fresh
fruit juice of the day, rice or pasta, soup, main course, tortillas,
and dessert. If you manage to finish your comida and are still
hungry, just ask one of the owners and they'll be pleased to bring you
some more at no extra cost. Great place if you're wandering around
downtown and need a quick Oaxacan food-fix.
(20 de Noviembre #408; 514-3121)
El Faro: Also located in Colonia Reforma, El Faro is a bar, plain and
simple. Drinks are generous, so be careful. The finger foods are why
you should give it a shot - - fried, flavorful and funky: spiced pork
riblets (costillas enchiladas), beef brain turnovers (empanadas de
sesos), lightly seasoned thin beef (tasajo), and fast-fried spiced
small potatoes (bolas de fuego --- balls of fire). But for those not
wanting to get greased and oiled, there are also vegetables marinated
in a chipotle vinaigrette, chorizo, and frijol con pata (boiled black
beans with healthy-sized chunks of gelatinous pig foot.
(Jasminez 222-B, Reforma)
El Tigre: For those who dare to venture into the true countryside, en route to Hierve el Agua on highway 190 about a kilometer before the turnoff to San Lorenzo Arbarradas, El Tigre is not only my favorite, but a roadside comedor the memory of which is forever emblazoned in the minds of every guest I've ever taken there. No menu. Free mezcal (they have their own palenque or factory). Disinfected produce. Limited selection of eggs and sausage, quesadillas, tasajo, cecina, and the odd daily special, of course with sliced onion and tomato for the asking, beans, and both tortillas and a salsa made from scratch before your very eyes on an open flame.
Mambo Italiano: Located in upscale suburb San Felipe del Agua,
"Mambo" is your typical trendy American-style Italian restaurant,
perhaps smaller with only about 20 seats. Short wine and liquor list,
but when every selection is good, you can't complain. Pastas are the
specialty, although pizza is available. For me the allure is that if I
don't see what I want on the menu, they'll improvise as long as I tell
them exactly what I want and they have the ingredients on hand.
(Jacarandas #121, San Felipe; 520-0048)
FOR THOSE who will be touring the villages in Oaxaca's central
valleys, two "tourist" restaurants deserve mention for their level of
cleanliness, pleasant ambience and good, traditional food. They are
Doña Chica, on the right side of the road just as you enter the town
of Mitla, and Azucena Zapoteca, en route to Ocotlán, on the left side
of highway at the cut-off to San Martín Tilcajete.