Get Out of Town!

The Lagoons

We have written extensively on the amazing ecosystems of the mangrove lagoons, so representative of the southern Pacific coast. Pick up one of the back issues for more. And welcome back, Mike Malone.

Points West

The coastal plain beyond Manialtepec Lagoon is particularly lush: rich grazing lands, vast coconut fields and lime orchards. San José Manialtepec lies just beyond the Lagoon. Here you can rent horses for a leisurely ride through beautiful country along the Manialtepec River to Atotonilco Hot Springs, an ancient ceremonial center for the Chatino Indians.

Roca Blanca is a lovely bay named for the guano-covered island that dominates the view. A pleasant beach to relax and enjoy fresh seafood at the palapa restaurants -- great oysters when they are in season! Get there from Cacalote, home of the famed Strangler or Lover's Trees, a variety of parasitic ficus that wraps itself around a palm tree creating fanciful and grotesque shapes and patterns.

Beyond Rio Grande, a large and prosperous cattle town, you'll find Santa Rosa de Lima, smaller and less-prosperous and the center of the coastal lime groves. The friendly, country-style restaurant named Doña is in itself worth a trip for lunch.

Villa Tututepec, some 15 Km off the highway, is the ancient town founded by Mixtecs who dominated the region until the colonial era and were never totally subjugated by the Aztecs. The town has a museum to house the relics of this ancient zone. The great stone carvings that were on the grounds of the town church - - once the site of the Mixtec Temple of the Sky - - plus samples of tools, weapons and ceramics that span the centuries.

Santiago Jamiltepec is a colorful, bustling market town; about 60 percent of the population is indigenous. The Indian ladies from the surrounding villages come here for supplies and to sell their produce. You'll see women in traditional dress: huipiles, embroidered blouses and the pozahuanco, the mauve and purple striped wraparound skirt. The men wear calzones, white, draw-string pants and shirts of heavy cotton.

The people of Jamiltepec were called malacateros, for malacates, wood and clay spindles used for spinning cotton. The area was an important cotton-growing center and the town is best known for its textile crafts - - hand woven and embroidered clothing, table clothes, napkins - - but families in Jamiltepec also traditionally produced finely-crafted knives and machetes, some engraved with prayers or amusing sayings.

Huazpala, or San Andres Huazpaltepec, is best known as the home of Tata Chu, a black representation of "Father Jesus", much revered by the coastal Mixtecs.

Huazolotitlan is just 4 Km from Huazpala in a lovely verdant valley. Located in a lovely valley, it's picturesque and notable for the production of elaborate woven huipiles and carved and painted wooden masks and figurines, many of which are still used in the traditional dances of the region. The town is also known for its delicious sweet egg bread, much prized throughout the region and dozens of homes fire up the ovens each afternoon filling the air with rich aromas.

When you arrive, you can ask for the home of Sr. Che Luna, one of the most renowned mask carvers of the region, or one of the workshops of some of the other cooperatives of carvers and weavers in the fascinating, yet accessible town. The people of Huazolo are warm and friendly to outsiders. They are proud of their culture and crafts and pleased to share this with others.

Points East

East of Puerto the terrain is much drier. Peanut, sesame and papaya cultivation dominates, but you'll also see bright red fields of jamaica, used to make agua de jamaica, tasty and rich in vitamin C. There are undeveloped beaches and small lagoons at El Tomatal and Santa Elena. Agua Blanca is notable for its tide pools.

The Iguana Hatchery run by Elpidio Marcelino is perched below the bridge over the Cotzoaltepec River. Iguanas are such a familiar feature of the Mexican landscape that it's surprising to learn that these creatures are endangered. Here you can see hundreds of iguanas in all their stages of development.

There are two distinct varieties: the more common black iguana which is found in more arid areas and the prehistoric-looking green iguana which favors river and lagoon banks.

Ventanilla is named for the "window rock" on its beach. Another model ecological project, the residents care for and run tours of their small mangrove lagoon in paddled boats without motors, so the animals are not frightened away by the noise. You'll get as close as you want to be to huge crocodiles and the nesting birds barely stir as you glide just feet away from them.

Mazunte was once the center for the harvesting of sea turtles. Today it's home to The Mexican Turtle Center, a government-run research and breeding facility that includes a public museum and a marine turtle aquarium and where you can learn everything about these ancient creatures.

This clean and attractive village is also home to the Natural Cosmetics Cooperative, formed to provide a livelihood for local families after turtles were placed under federal protection. San Agustinillo, the neighboring village boasts a pretty bay with white sand beaches and great shrimp cocktails.

Zipolite is known for its laid back hippie vibe and clothing optional beach. Careful, though: a trip to Avalon is often ruined by all too frequent thefts.

Puerto Angel hasn't lost its sleepy fishing-village feel, although recent years have seen a marked improvement in the town's infrastructure, with more paved roads and improved visitor services.

Points North

San Pedro Mixtepec is a pleasant, well-ordered and clean community that sits on a river and is surrounded by densely wooded and frequently cloudy peaks. It is the center of the county that includes much of Puerto Escondido. It claims a valuable tourist attraction: El Chorro Waterfall is spectacular. Getting there used to be just for the adventurous and the energetic. Now there is a passable road (depending on the weather, and the level of the river) almost all the way. Take the road to La Reforma, and ask directions.

You can still walk or rent a horse to enjoy the beautiful scenery as you follow the path of the river, which you will cross five or six times before arriving at a series of deep, sweet-water pools.

It's the perfect spot for a picnic and a swim before you venture up stream to the main falls, a magnificent cascade of water that plummets from a height of some 130 feet into a glorious cool lake.

San Gabriel Mixtepec, is the next major town along Highway 135. It's an attractive community with a fine church. Leave the main highway here to get to Santos Reyes Nopala, a great town to explore: the churches, the market and small restaurants where you can sometimes find venison, quail or crawdads on the menu.

You can see archeological remains of the ancient culture in the municipal palace, the kiosk in the main plaza, and in some private homes.