GO FISH

Fishing Central in Puerto is Bahia Principal, the main beach in the center of town adjacent to the Adoquin pedestrian walkway (vehicles are prohibited after 5 p.m.). The town fishermen are divided into two groups: the commercial fishers, who sell their catch and the sports fishing captains who take visitors out for the hunt. Each group belongs to cooperatives which regulate their activities and set standards.

By law, the commercial guys are prohibited from taking marlin, sail fish or dorado (mahi mahi or dolphin fish), which are classified as sports fish. But given the sparse enforcement here, few fishermen are going to release a big fish, whatever its species. (Technically restaurants are also prohibited from offering these fish on their menu.) Sports Fishing Fishing the waters off the Oaxacan coast is one of the overlooked attractions of this region. Puerto offers some of the best sports fishing along the entire length of the Mexican Riviera. Compared to most resorts, it is also a bargain. While we lack the spiffy sports fishing yachts and fighting chairs of the spiffy resorts, Puerto's fleet of 18 to 23-foot lanchas and the knowledgeable skippers from the sports fishing cooperative are capable of hauling in anything from grouper to marlin.

The going rate is 250 to 300 pesos an hour, and the launches can normally accommodate four people on a fishing trip. You'll want to leave at dawn and return by noon. That's when the fish are biting and you'll avoid the hottest part of the day. Take a hat. Prepare your food and drinks the night before because few stores are open at that hour near the beach.

Most hotels can arrange for a knowledgeable and honest skipper. You can make arrangements through the sports fishing cooperative office on Avenida Marina Nacional, near the Adoquin, or you can select your own on Playa Principal. Make sure the boat has all of the required safety equipment, such as life vests.

Fishing is good here year round, but this time of year is your best chance of catching the elusive marlin and sailfish. As we were going to press, we heard about a few marlin catches and many tales of huge ones which "got away". There was also plentiful sailfish, dorado, snook and really large mackerel.

Sailfish are found in warmer blue waters and typically range from 35 to 50 kilos. They are most plentiful from June to September. The blue marlin and black marlin (makaira indica/makaira nigricans) which can weigh up to several hundred kilos are much more elusive; only two or so are caught here each month. Like the sailfish, summer is the best time for fishing them.

Yellow fin tuna (atun aleta amarillo, thunnus albacares) are common here year round, ranging in size from 3 to 100 kilos, but eight to 10 kilo "footballs" are the norm.

Perhaps one of the most exciting thrills for a sportsman is to catch a dolphin fish or mahi mahi (dorado). These electric-blue and emerald-hued fish grow to about 55 kilos, but they can fight, jumping and twisting out of the water and they are capable of amazing bursts of speed.

They like to hide among floating debris, so they, too, are particularly plentiful when the rains cause river runoff into the sea. Rooster fish (pez gallo, nematistius pectoralis) is another prized catch for the serious fisherman. An iridescent black and blue, about three-feet in length, distinguished by its "cock's comb", it is found in shallow beach areas, often near a river mouth. And very tasty it is, too.

Other fish you might encounter: The bonito (barrilete) is particularly common. Black, about two-feet in length, it's not valued as a food fish, despite its good flavor, because of its red flesh. But there is a variety of bonita called barrilete diente, "bonita with teeth", which has much paler flesh and is delicious.

The Pacific mackerel (sierra, scomberomorus) is gray with gold spots, about two-feet in length, and provides delicious firm white meat. Red snapper (huachinango, lutjanus peru) is also fished at night. Reddish pink, up to two-feet in length, this local staple is commonly found in deep rocky pools. The lights you see out on the bay at night are the cayuceros, fishermen in dugout canoes who use gas-fired lamps to attract them. Snook (robalo, centropomus nigrescens), another excellent food fish, is blackish brown, two to three-feet in length, commonly found in and around the lagoons.

Mullet (lisa) is found in shallow, sandy bays, while the grouper (pargo), a rust-brown fish up to 3-feet in length, likes deep water and reefs, an environment that also attracts its close relative, the sea bass (cabrilla). There's more than one way to catch a fish. Surf casters can reel in some impressive specimens and a line and hook dropped off the rocks can snag a needle fish (aguja), a curious long skinny fish with tasty white meat and very blue bones. If you like to scuba, snorkel or spear fish, talk to dive master Jorge Perez of the Aventura Submarina Dive Shop (on the Adoquin, across from the tourist information booth). He speaks excellent English and knows these waters as well as anyone.

At least one of your mornings here should be spent on the Bahia Principal as the commercial fishermen bring back their catch. You'll see all of these fish plus many more such as sole (lenguado) amber jack (medregal), yellow tail (salema), octopus (pulpo), conch, (caracol), crabs, (jaibe) and shark (tiburón), as well as some creatures that I have yet to identify. Heads up, though, as the guys make their full-throttle dash to beach their launches. You might be asked to lend a hand in rolling the boat over logs beyond the tide line. You can buy whole fish from the boat crews or fillets and cleaned fish from the ladies who run the stalls on the beach.

Just about every local restaurant offers fish in one form or another: a simple caldo de pescado (fish soup); filete (fish filet); or pescado entero (whole fish) any style you choose: Empanizado (breaded and fried); al mojo de ajo (garlic butter), a la veracruzana (Veracruz-style with tomatoes, onions garlic, and peppers), a la diabla ("devil-style," in a fiery pepper sauce), to name just a few variations.

Seafood cocktails are another local staple, Choose from the mundane shrimp, octopus, conch, marinated fish, or try the cocktail which includes all of the above. It is believed to have exceptional recuperative properties (hangover, anyone?), hence its name vuelve a la vida, "come back to life."

This month we offer some simple fish recipes, courtesy of Restaurant La Perla Flameante, located on the Adoquín:

TUNA CEVICHE

A dozen of your new found amigos are coming over for beer and margaritas. Here's a fast and easy appetizer to satisfy the horde

• 1 kilo fresh tuna
• Juice of 20 limes
• Juice of 8 oranges
• 10 tomatoes
• 1 large onion
• 6 green chiles chopped
• 1/2 liter of ketchup
• Hot sauce to your taste
• 1 handful of cilantro
• 3 Tablespoons olive oil

Cut the tuna into very small pieces and put it to marinate in the lime juice for 2 to 4 hours. Pour off the lime juice and rinse the fish again. Add all of the remaining ingredients: the tomatoes, onion, green chili, and the cilantro finely chopped. Add the ketchup, oil, orange juice and the hot sauce (preferably Salsa Valentina). Mix well. When you are ready to serve it, you can add small pieces of avocado. Serve with tostados.

TUNA IN CILANTRO SAUCE
2 Portions

• 1/2 kilo fresh tuna
• Salt and pepper
• Worcestershire sauce
• 1 red onion, finely chopped
• 400 grams mushrooms
• 1 cup of cilantro
• Juice of 2 limes
• 1/4 cup olive oil

Saute the chopped onions and sliced mushrooms. Add the fish, then a cup of water and bring it it to boil. Add salt and pepper and cover. In a blender mix the cilantro with a cup of water, the lime juice and the worcester sauce ("salsa ingela"). Mix into the fish and let it simmer for about 10 minutes.

FILLET "A LA DIABLA"
1 Portion

• 2 Fillets of fish
• 1/2 t-spoon minced garlic
• 3 Tb- spoons margarine
• 1/2 small can of chipotle chiles
• 1 t-spoon sugar
• 1 oz. of vinegar
• Salt and pepper to taste

Blend the chipotle with the sugar, a little salt and the vinegar. Melt the margarine or butter in a pan and throw in the garlic. Add the fish, salt and pepper. Turn the fish, and then add the chipotle mixture.