| Dra. Irasema Venezia / solista | Balada: Niño del Mar |
| Juventino Robles Aquileo González, solista Intérprete | Chilena: Puerto Escondido |
| Ruperto Arroyo Vsquez / Ruperto Vásquez y Selestino intérprete | Romantica: Mi Puerto de Amor |
| Alberto Marroquin Juárez / solista | Chilena: Puerto Escondido |
| Carlos Martinez Ray / solista | Chilena y Chamarrita: Domingo en Puerto |
| Guillermo Cueva Avila Trio Flama intérprete | Bolero: Mi Puerto Es un Paraíso |
| Claudio Dunning | Son: La Esmeralda de Neptuno |
| Willy Espejo Nahuales, cuartet intérprete | Chilena: Esa Morena |
| Juventino Robles Pinacho, solista | Balada Romántica: Puerto Escondido |
| Dueto D Portobello | Huapango-Chilena: 7 Regiones Ofrenda a Pto. Escondido |
Third Anniversary of El Sol de la Costa June is habitually a slow month in Puerto Escondido. But we hope to change all that. June marks the birthday of El Sol de la Costa - - we turn three this month! -- so last year, we invited the community to celebrate along with us at the 1st "Song for Puerto" Contest, in which composers and musicians were invited to present their original songs about Puerto Escondido.
It was a magical night, a veritable love fest. 22 songs were entered, ranging from the traditional chilenas to rancheras, boleros, cumbias and even a reggae composition; hundreds of my friends and neighbors crowded the Adoquín to enjoy a night of magical entertainment and to express affection for this special place we call home.
This month the Song Contest returns, but it will be held on three nights: Saturday and Sunday, June 23 and 24 for the preliminaries, and Sunday, June 30 for the finals. And during that week, El Sol de la Costa and participating sponsors and the hope to bring you other musical events to launch what we hope will soon become a significant attraction for Puerto every June (and fill some of those empty rooms, stores and restaurant tables): The Puerto Escondido Music Festival. Look for a complete schedule to be posted in this site very soon, as well as contest rules and entry form. But if you are in Puerto, you'll find them at any of the fine businesses whose services are advertised in El Sol de la Costa and whom we thank for making possible our first three years.
Hurricane Season When the ancients prayed for rain, they were specific about what they wanted: Gentle, steady showers, plentiful enough to nourish the earth, but without the winds and torrential downpours that could destroy crops and homes.
Unfortunately that is not always what we get once the rainy season arrives. It's hurricane season and out in the Pacific tropical depressions and storms are continually forming. Most past harmlessly by, others give us a good soaking. But hurricanes happen.
Since Hurricanes Pauline and Rick smacked into the Oaxacan coast in 1997, the state of Oaxaca has aggressively fostered a culture of civil protection.
During hurricane season (May 15 to Nov. 30) an elaborate system of storm tracking, using all available national and international meteorological resources, goes into permanent effect.
Data gathered is transmitted to the National System of Civil Protection which issues bulletins to the news media every six hours, if there's a tropical depression more than 500 Km from the Mexican coast. Once a storm develops within that 500 Km, bulletins are issued every three hours.
Here in Puerto Escondido, the Civil Protection Council is headed by the Harbor Master, Cap. Francisco Quiñones Quiñones, who is responsible for issuing the local advisories and implementing emergency measures, if necessary.
Radio Esmeralda, the local FM radio station (at FM94.1), has excelled at keeping the community informed in emergency situations. (They also offer regular bulletins in English.) If you are in an area susceptible to flooding and are advised to leave, emergency shelters will be available.. Otherwise, Stay calm, stay in your hotel, pack in some food, water, candles and batteries and wait it out.
But be aware that during normal storms, huge amounts of rain can fall in a very short period of time and those previously dry creek beds can convert into raging torrents. Be very careful in crossing these on foot; even if you don't get swept away, they frequently carry heavy debris that can cause serious injury.
If you are driving, take it slow and watch out for washouts and mud slides.
Third Anniversary I first discovered Puerto Escondido in the early 1970's, a young, anthropology dropout and itinerant freelance journalist intoxicated by the beauty and cultural complexity of Mexico, especially southern Mexico, and Oaxaca in particular.
It was Mexico that first lured me to the New World 30 years ago from damp, rainy (and to my mind) boring London. And it was to Mexico that I returned when I had the time to amble and enough in my pockets for a bus ticket or a tank of gas, some tacos and an icy Superior.
When career and parenting responsibilities raised their demanding visages, it was in San Francisco I settled, not the country of my birth. But I continued to travel as much as possible within the limitations of my sedentary commitments and I set foot on most of the continents.
I returned to Puerto Escondido in January of 1997. I saw the full moon rise over the mountains through the window of the battered bus as it wheezed through the Sierra Madre del Sur.
I had quit my job as features editor of the daily newspaper in Monterey, Cal, after it had been gobbled up by a huge media conglomerate. Time, I thought, to begin work on my novel.
I expected to be able to stay for three or four months. But here I am still. Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca is my home and I consider myself among the blessed for this.
Why was it here that I returned of all the far-flung, exotic and beautiful places that I experienced? I don't know whether I can answer that question adequately, but the love affair continues.
Each full moon, I am aware of another small anniversary of my time here. I haven't finished my novel, but I have filled my hours with the wonder of my chosen home and the pleasure of writing about it for others.
This issue marks the third anniversary of El Sol de la Costa, a more significant milestone, perhaps, than my monthly prayer of thanks.
I wrote these thoughts last year at this time to announce the first Song for Puerto Contest. So,
again I will leave it to the singers, musicians and the poets to express this Puerto Escondido
feeling, more ably, certainly than I
- -Warren Sharpe.
Holidays, Events and Notable Days
Note: Events in the calendar are as accurate as we could determine at press time. But times and locations of events change. To avoid disappointment, check with Gina at the Adoquín tourist booth or at the offices of El Sol de la Costa, just opposite.
Fri 1
Day of the Sailor
In Mexico every trade and profession has its day of recognition, from doctors to bricklayers.
Today is the day to salute members of the navy and merchant marine.
Tue 5
Full Moon in Sagittarius at 8:40 p.m.
Birth of Francisco"Pancho" Villa
The great revolutionary general was born Doroteo Arango in the state of Durango
on June 5, 1877. As commander of the Revolutionary Army of the North, his
military victories earned him the epithet of "Centaur of the North." He was
finally defeated by Gen. Obregon at Celaya in 1920 and was persuaded to return
to private life and given a ranch so he could devote himself to agriculture.
But in the midst of renewed political instability, he was assassinated in an
ambush at Hidalgo de Parral, Chihuahua on July 20, 1923. In 1976 Villa's
remains were transferred to the Monument to the Revolution in Mexico City.
Mon 11 - Wed 13
Festival of San Antonio
San Antonio Pochutla
A traditional coast fiesta featuring parades, dances, a rodeo and the lighting
of the castillo, a tower affixed with fireworks in a traditional display of
pyrotechnic magic. San Antonio is located on the main coast highway to Pochutla
at the road that leads to Mazunte, site of the Turtle Museum. Other towns and
neighborhoods in the region named for this saint will also celebrate during
these days.
Sun 17
Father's Day
Mom had her special day last month, now it's time to celebrate fatherhood. (Not
too many receive neck ties in Puerto Escondido, we imagine.) Radio Esmeralda
often hosts a special event for dads at Town Hall Explanade (Explanada de la
Agencia Municipal).
Thu 21
New Moon in Cancer at 6:59 a.m.
First Day of Summer
If you're keeping score, it officially begins at 2:38 a.m.
Anniversary of the Founding of San Pedro Mixtepec
The administrative center of the county that includes the western part of Puerto
Escondido celebrates the 372nd anniversary of its founding today with a civic
ceremony. From 6 p.m. Plaza in front of the municipal building.
Fri 22 - Sun 24
Festival of St. John the Baptist
Santos Reyes Nopala
This important center of Chatino culture is always an interesting place to visit
especially so during one of its traditional celebrations. The town has been
continuously occupied for at least 2,000 years and is riddled with
archaeological relics attesting to its status as the ceremonial center for a
powerful dynasty. Some of their fiestas take the form of a mayordomia, where a
festival mayordomo or sponsor must provide food and refreshment for all who
attend the festivities. It's quite a sight to see the women tending huge
cauldrons of beans, mountains of tortillas and vast sides of beef. There's also
lots of tepache, fermented cane juice and champurrada, a chocolate atole drink.
This is also a fiesta de a caballo, a horse fiesta. (See the article below
for more)
Sat 23 - Sat 30
"Song for Puerto" Contest
To celebrate our 3rd anniversary, El Sol de la Costa hosts this contest to
select the best song about Puerto Escondido. Open to all local musicians, the
preliminaries will take place beginning at 7 p.m. Sat. 23, on the
Adoquín. The finals will be held at 8 p.m. at the Town Hall Esplanade
on Saturday 30. Also look for details of other related events during the
intervening week, including a Food Fair and other musical presentations.
Wed 27
Our Lady of Perpetual Sorrow
Santos Reyes Nopala
Important religious observation in this hilltop town.
Wed 27 - Fri 29
Festival of Saint Peter the Apostle
San Pedro Mixtepec
The fiesta begins with the convite and calenda, processions through the streets
of the town to invite participation in the celebration. Led by a brass band and
huge papier-mache puppets, there's dancing and a festive ambiance. There will
also be sports events, the jaripeo rodeo, the castillo fireworks display and
dances. Other communities in the area celebrate this patron saint, including
the town of Pochutla. In Santos Reyes Nopala, it is cause for another
mayordomía and "horse fiesta". (See below for more)
JUNE 30
"La Noche Triste"
In 1520 Aztec troops led by Cuitláhuac attacked Spanish forces killing 400 Spaniards and
2,000 Indians loyal to them, forcing Cortes and the survivors to flee the city of Tenochtitlan. The
attack came in reprisal for the slaughter of hundreds of Aztec nobles participating in religious
rites in the temple. Legend has it that the distraught Cortes wept and called the rout la Noche
Triste, Sad Night or Night of Sorrow.
JULY ALERT:
International Friends of Puerto Escondido (IFOPE) is hosting an Independence Day
Party at Beach Hotel Inés from 2 p.m. on Monday, July 2. Cost is 30
pesos which includes a hotdog or burger, fries, cake and coffee. Reservations:
Nancy Radmin at 582-3130. Art & Harry restaurant is also planning a special
Independence Day event on July 4th.
Radio, Radio
Sunday 8 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Chiles y Chocolates, a bilingual radio
program hosted by "Lucy Sonido", actually Canadian musicologist Helena Szutska, an eclectic mix of
music from around the world.
Wednesday 9 p.m.
La Luciernaga (Firefly)
Lucy's midweek, commercial-free hour of free-flowing music. Radio Esmeralda,
94.1 FM.
Nopala's "Horse Fiestas" In the Chatino Indian community of Santos Reyes Nopala, The Horse Fiestas (Las Fiestas de a Caballo), are held celebrated this time of year in honor of Catholic saints such as Saint John and Saint James. The fiestas are characterized by cabalgatas, processions of mounted riders and animated horse racing.
In Nopala these have a religious character whose roots date back to the time during the Colonial period when the Indians gained the right to possess and ride horses.
The fiestas,or mayordomias are organized by a mayordomo (steward or festival sponsor) who is named by the town authorities the year before and is responsible for covering the costs of the religious observances and for decorating the church, for paying the musicians, as well as for the dinner on the saint's day eve (vispera) and lunch and drinks on the actual saint's day.
The horse fiesta begins when young people and adults of both sexes gather at the mayordomo's home where they ride in procession to the church. Here the male and female captains of the cavalcade receive the banners bearing the images of the saint which they parade through the streets of the town, preceded by the town band and followed by all the other participants.
All are invited to the mayordomo's home to join the town leaders, prominent citizens and the public in general to drink tepache (fermented cane juice), beer and mescal and dine on black beans, pork, bread and hot chocolate. The gathering celebrate into the wee hours dancing to the traditional sones and chilenas of the region.
The following day is filled with religious rites at the church, another meal at the home of the mayordomo open to all with further drinking and dancing.
In the afternoon the cavalcade returns to the streets with the banners and the band, but then the races acquire a very special religious character.
The mayordomo presents the male and female captains of the riders at least a dozen hens and roosters, which are tied by their feet to a rope which is hung about three meters above the road. The riders , both the men and women, form into pairs, then, either in tandem or individually, they gallop at full speed to try to grasp the heads of the dangling birds.
The contest continues until all the birds have been sacrificed, then the winners are presented with prizes by attractive matrons of honor (madrinas). After more dancing to the chilena and son music, the mayordomo, the band, the riders and everyone else make their way to the house of the person named as the mayordomo for the following year's fiesta and with great ceremony and respect hand over the banners. The new mayordomo accepts them and invites the gathering to continue the festivities for a few moments in his home and offers them beer and mescal.
The following morning the mayordomos and the municipal authorities meet at the house of the female captain of the riders and enjoy a delicious spicy chicken soup made from the sacrificed chickens, thus closing the celebration of a mayordomia of the horse fiesta.
For the Chatinos of Nopala, these horse has a meaning that goes beyond simple entertainment or blood sport. As mentioned earlier, this ritual has its origin in the colonial era when the Spaniards prohibited the Indians from worshipping their ancient gods and they had to find ways to continue practicing their religion without being punished.
It is known that the Chatinos used to hold religious ceremonies to deities such as "Kioo" the rain god, from whom they would ask for rain and abundant crops, offering animal (but never human) sacrifice. Since such observances were denounced by the church as devil worship, the Chatinos had to find ways to continue the customs by mixing elements of Catholicism with those of their ancestral religion, giving rise to a "mestizo" tradition that has endured to this day.
If you would like to experience one of these horse fiestas and the hospitality and sincerity of the
people, the Nopaltecos will celebrate the mayordomía of St. John on June 24 and of St.
Peter on June 29. They will welcome you with open arms.
- - Prof. Javier G. Pérez Sánchez