It hasn't always been easy keeping this ship afloat, but it's always been a fulfilling and rewarding
labor of love: learning about my adoptive home and sharing the treasures of this special place with
others.
I must give special thanks to the businesses that have supported my efforts over these four years and made it possible for this to get to you free of charge each month. (Please support our advertisers and let them know you read about them right here.)
And I'd like to thank the friends, neighbors and colleagues of Puerto Escondido who have shown me the friendship and the warmth for which costeños are so justly known and for paying me the ultimate compliment: Reading El Sol de la Costa and embracing it as their own.
-- Warren Sharpe
Sat 1
Day of the Sailor
In Mexico every trade and profession has its day of recognition, from
doctors to bricklayers. Today is the day to salute members of the navy
and merchant marine.
Wed 5
Birth of Francisco "Pancho" Villa
The great revolutionary general was born Doroteo Arango in the state of
Durango on June 5, 1877. As commander of the Revolutionary Army of the
North, his military victories earned him the epithet of "Centaur of the
North."
He was finally defeated by Gen. Obregon at Celaya in 1920 and was persuaded to return to private life and given a ranch so he could devote himself to agriculture. But in the midst of renewed political instability, he was assassinated in an ambush at Hidalgo de Parral, Chihuahua on July 20, 1923.
In 1976 Villa's remains were transferred to the Monument to the Revolution in Mexico City.
Thu 6
Armando Chacha
Concert by one of the foremost interpreters of trova, modern folk music.
It's to celebrate the first anniversary of the Conaculta office in
Puerto, which promotes indigenous and popular culture in the region
9 p.m. Hotel VillaSol
Mon 10
New Moon
in Gemini at 6:48 p.m.
Tue 11 - Thu 13
Festival of San Antonio San Antonio Pochutla
A traditional coast fiesta featuring parades, dances, a rodeo and the
lighting of the castillo, a tower affixed with fireworks in a
traditional display of pirotechnic magic.
San Antonio is located on the main coast highway to Pochutla at the road that leads to Mazunte, site of the Turtle Museum. Other towns and neighborhoods in the region named for this saint will also celebrate during these days.
Sun 16
Father's Day
Mom had her special day last month, now dad gets a turn.
Singing Contest
A Father's Day contest (for women, too) for amateurs only. Sing any song
that you'd like. 3,000 pesos for first place, 2,000 for second and 1,000
for third. Registration is free of cost, at Town Hall (Agencia
Municipal) or La Perla Restaurant.
5 p.m. Town Hall Esplanade
Fri 21
First Day of Summer
If you're keeping score, it officially begins at 8:24 a.m.
Anniversary of the Founding of San Pedro Mixtepec
The administrative center of the county that includes most of Puerto
Escondido celebrates the 372nd anniversary of its founding today with a
civic ceremony. Details unavailable at press time
6 p.m. Municipal Plaza. San Pedro Mixtepec
(For more on San Pedro Mixtepec, see below)
Sat 22 - Mon 24
Festival of St. John the Baptist
Santos Reyes Nopala
This important center of Chatino culture is always an interesting place
to visit especially so during one of its traditional celebrations.
The town has been continuously occupied for at least 2,000 years and is riddled with archaeological relics attesting to its status as the ceremonial center for a powerful dynasty.
Some of their fiestas take the form of a mayordomia, where a festival mayordomo or sponsor must provide food and refreshment for all who attend the festivities.
It's quite a sight to see the women tending huge cauldrons of beans, mountains of tortillas and vast sides of beef. There's also lots of tepache, fermented cane juice and champurrada, a chocolate atole drink.
This is also a fiesta de a caballo, a horse fiesta. (See the article below for more)
Mon 24
Full Moon in Capricorn at 4:42 p.m.
Thu 27
Our Lady of Perpetual Sorrow
Santos Reyes Nopala
Important religious observation in this hilltop town.
Thu 27 - Sat 29
Festival of Saint Peter the Apostle
San Pedro Mixtepec
The fiesta begins with the convite and calenda, processions through the
streets of the town to invite participation in the celebration. Led by a
brass band and huge papier-mache puppets, there's dancing and a festive
ambiance.
There will also be sports events, the jaripeo rodeo, the castillo fireworks display and dances.
Other communities in the area celebrate this patron saint, including Pochutla and Tutútepec. In Santos Reyes Nopala, it is cause for another mayordomía and "horse fiesta". (See below for more)
Sun 30
"La Noche Triste"
In 1520 Aztec troops led by Cuitláhuac attacked Spanish forces killing
400 Spaniards and 2,000 Indians loyal to them, forcing Cortes and the
survivors to flee the city of Tenochtitlan. The attack came in response
to the brutal slaughter of hundreds of Aztec nobles participating in
religious rites in the temple. Legend has it that the distraught Cortes
wept beneath an ahuehuete tree and called the rout la Noche Triste, Sad
Night or Night of Sorrow.
Radio, Radio
Helena Szutska, known to her listeners as "Lucy Sonido", presents
bilingual world-music radio shows on local FM radio station Esmeralda, 94.1FM.
"Chiles y Chocolates"
8 to 10 p.m. on Sundays
"La Luciernaga"
3 to 5 p.m. on Wednesdays
"Cuban Hour"
11 a.m. to noon on Saturdays
In the Chatino Indian community of Santos Reyes Nopala, The Horse
Fiestas (Las Fiestas de a Caballo), are held celebrated this time of
year in honor of Catholic saints such as Saint John and Saint James. The
fiestas are characterized by cabalgatas, processions of mounted riders
and animated horse racing.
The fiestas, or mayordomias, are organized by a mayordomo (steward or festival sponsor) who is named by the town authorities the year before and is responsible for covering the costs of the religious observances and for decorating the church, for paying the musicians, as well as for the dinner on the saint's day eve (vispera) and lunch and drinks on the actual saint's day.
The horse fiesta begins when people and adults of both sexes gather at the mayordomo's home to ride in procession to the church. Here the male and female captains of the cavalcade receive the banners bearing the images of the saint which they parade through the streets of the town, preceded by the town band and followed by all the other participants
All are invited to the mayordomo's home to join the town leaders, prominent citizens and the public in general to drink tepache (fermented cane juice), beer and mescal and dine on black beans, pork, bread and hot chocolate. The gathering celebrate into the wee hours dancing to the traditional sones and chilenas of the region.
The following day is filled with religious rites at the church, another meal at the home of the mayordomo open to all with further drinking and dancing.
In the afternoon the cavalcade returns to the streets with the banners and the band, but then the races acquire a very special religious character.
The mayordomo presents the male and female captains of the riders at
least a dozen hens and roosters, which are tied by their feet to a rope
which is hung about three meters above the road.
The riders , both the men and women, form into pairs, then, either in tandem or individually, they gallop at full speed to try to grasp the heads of the dangling birds.
For the Chatinos of Nopala, these horse races have a meaning that goes beyond simple entertainment or blood sport.
The ritual has its origin in the colonial era when the Spaniards prohibited the Indians from worshipping their ancient gods and they had to find ways to continue practicing their religion without being punished.
Among those practices was the sacrificing of animals to Kioo the rain god, to grant rain and abundant crops. When the Indians gained the right to possess and ride horses, these races represented a clandestine and defiant means of conserving their cultural traditions.
If you would like to experience one of these horse fiestas and the hospitality and sincerity of the people, the Nopaltecos will celebrate the mayordomía of St. John on June 24, of St. Peter on June 29 and Santiago in July.
San Pedro Mixtepec is a picturesque community nestled in the Sierra foothills just 20 minutes from Puerto Escondido on the road to Oaxaca via Sola de Vega.
This month San Pedro celebrates the 373rd anniversary of its founding, as well as the festivities to honor its patron saint, St. Peter the Apostle (San Pedro Apóstol).
The historical milestone will be marked on June 21 with a civic and cultural program at 6 p.m. in and around the municipal government building.
The annual festivities honoring San Pedro Apóstol will begin on June 27 with the calenda and convite (the traditional parades marking the start of the celebrations) and will continue through July 1.
There will be sports tournaments, cultural presentations, rodeos, dances, fireworks and general merriment, plus, of course, the religious observances
San Pedro is the starting point for a visit to the spectacular El Chorro waterfall near the small town of La Reforma. This trip used to be just for the adventurous and energetic visitor. To get there you had to first take the dirt road (off to the right just past the sign welcoming you to San Pedro Mixtepec) the half-hour drive La Reforma. From there it was a two-hour plus walk to get to the falls.
Now there is a passable road (depending on the weather, and the level of the river) almost all the way out to El Chorro. You can still walk or rent a horse to enjoy the beautiful scenery as you follow the path of the river, which you will cross five or six times before arriving at a series of deep, sweet-water pools.
It's the perfect spot for a picnic and a swim before you venture up stream a ways to the magnificent cascade of water that plummets from a height of some 130 feet.
Stop in La Reforma to ask for directions or to rent horses and or a guide ask for Job or Albino who will be happy to teach you about the flora and fauna and catch trout and crayfish and cook you a wonderful meal.
Rising up out of the center of the City is the "El Fortin" hill, named
for the small fort built by the Aztecs to protect their trade routes.
Atop this hill is the Nunde-hui ("looking at the sky") Planetarium. If
you don't want to walk all the way up, take a taxi.
It's worth the trip, even if you aren't into star gazing. You'll get a panoramic view of the city, including the hills crowned by Monte Alban across the valley. The Planetarium offers 2 shows daily at 6 and 7 p.m. There's also a natural history museum there and nearby is the "El Mirador" restaurant. where you can get a "yard of beer" and a "parillada" (sizzling grilled meats with tortillas and salsas) along with that spectacular view.
After enjoying the sights, it's literally all down hill from there. Follow the road back down to the esplanade in front of the Guelaguetza Auditorium and you ll come to a tunnel that leads under the Pan-American highway and onto a seemingly endless tree-covered stairway that finally does end at Crespo Street, just a few blocks from the center of the city.
Here's a cool idea: Try the delicious home-made ice cream at the Jardin Socrates In front of the Soledad Church, between Independencia and Morelos streets.
Aside from the old standbys, you can savor such Oaxacan treats as burnt milk, tuna (prickly pear), peanut (one of my favorites), corn on the cob, rose petal, and tequila. Most Oaxaqueñans eat their ice cream with special sweet breads that are sold by vendors who stand nearby with their wares in a glass case on a tripod.
Another treat is the El Pochote Cineclub, a real art cinematheque, located at García Vigil # 817, by los arquitos (the little arches). Call 514-1194 for the program, or pick up a schedule after the 1st of each month. The best part is that it's free!. There is one show at 6 p.m. on Tuesdays and two Wednesday through Sunday, at 6 and 8 p..m.. Mondays it's closed.
There's no shortage of museums in Oaxaca, but something a little different is the Oaxaca Museum of Philately (Museo de Filatelia de Oaxaca) In Mexico the first postal stamp came out in 1856, prior to that, the mails were literally stamped with an inked seal, each one postal office creating its own, resulting in a wide variety from simple to picturesque to the elaborately ornamented.
Located at Reforma #504 in downtown (behind the Santo Domingo Cultural Complex) the cool, quiet corridors house an extensive collection that reflects a wide variety of artistic expression and talent.
And these are just a few of my favorite places. More in future issues.
BA
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Close encounters with nature have been a constant subject of coverage,
from birding at the great mangrove lagoons of Manialtepec and Chacahua
to crocodile spotting at the small community managed eco-preserves such
as Palmazola at Barra de Navidad and Ventanilla and the state-of-art
museum and research facility of the Mexican Turtle Center in Mazunte.
Agustin Reyes Sánchez and his neighbors offer interesting tours of the
Ventanilla lagoon that they have converted into a successful eco-tourist
attraction.
The Iguana Man: In an effort to stop the disappearance of the endangered reptile, Elpidio Marcelino runs an Iguana Hatchery located under the bridge over the Cotzoaltepec River, some 5 Km beyond Santa Elena.
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The Calenda is how Oaxaqueños initiate their traditional fiestas, a festive parade featuring candle-lit globes, giant puppets, fireworks and brass band to invite everyone to attend the festivities. Mixtec Ball, a strenuous sport involving a large solid rubber ball and elaborate 7 to 12 lb. leather gloves is played in many coastal towns on the weekend. You can usually see a game in Chila on Sundays. |  |
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