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Puerto's Saint

The Virgin of La Soledad ("Solitude") is the patron saint of both the city of Oaxaca and of Puerto Escondido. The legend of Soledad originates in the 17th century, when the city of Oaxaca was on the main trade route between Veracruz and the Pacific coast. According to this legend, a mule driver en route to Guatemala was surprised to find an extra mule bearing a strange wooden chest among his animals.

As he arrived at the monastery of Saint Sebastian the mule fell and resisted all efforts to get it on its feet.

Authorities were sent for and the mysterious box was opened, emitting a strong smell of gardenias. Inside was an image of the Virgin and a wooden icon of Christ.

A miracle was proclaimed and a temple dedicated to the Virgin of Soledad was erected at the site of the mule's demise. (You can visit the newly-restored Basilica of Soledad and its adjoining museum in the city of Oaxaca on Avenida Independencia).

torritos Puerto celebrates its patrona in three days of traditional festivities including religious observances, processions (including the elaborate calenda on Dec 16), fireworks and dances.

The fireworks display is known as a castillo, "castle," but actually it's a tower built of cane and bamboo and affixed with rockets and spinning wheels to create a fabulous show of choreographed pyrotechnic magic.

Before the castillo is lit, los toritos ("little bulls") run amok. Young men place these structures, -- most commonly in the form of a bull -- on their head and run around chasing the observers in a terrifying blaze of spinning lights and loud explosions.

The castillo always is held on the veispera, or evening before the feast day, in this case Dec. 17.

But the unique observance here takes place on Dec. 18, with the Salida al Mar, the trip out to sea. This acknowledges the importance of the ocean and fishing to the town.

At about 4 p.m., the statue of La Soledad is taken from its niche in the church and, led by a brass band and folkloric groups it is carried through the streets of town followed by throngs of parishioners.

soledad She is led down to the beach were she is placed in a fishing boat and, along with the band and as many of the faithful who can crowd into the available fishing launches, the Virgin is taken out to sea to the accompaniment of music, singing and the explosion of rockets.

The water caravan stays out for about an hour and a half and then La Soledad is carried back to the church which is named for her. The day normally concludes with a free dance at the Town Hall Esplanade.



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