Ancient Tutútepec

This month San Pedro Tutútepec, now known as Villa Tutútepec de Melchor Ocampo, celebrates 1,651 years of continuous human occupation with a series of special events (See calendar for program of activities).

San Pedro Tutútepec lies eight kilometres off the Coastal Highway, perched atop a cluster of foothills rich in lush vegetation. At the time of the Spanish Conquest (1519-1522), this part of the Oaxacan coast had long been under the control of a Mixtec dynasty based in Tutútepec. According to interpretation of surviving Mixtec codices, on April 3, 357 AD, the king of Tilantongo sent Prince Matatzín to lead 20,000 families, the high priest of Achiutla and 50 other priests to colonize the rich lands and trading routes of the coastal plains.

The place they chose they called Yucu Saa (Hill - yucu, of the Birds - saá), named for the pyramid-like peak covered with seabirds that they encountered. Matatzín found this to be a propitious sign and, when they had climbed to the summit, they were awed by the view: the wetlands of Chacahua; the great Pacific; the green plains and the mountains beyond Pochutla and Juquila.

The Lord of Tutútepec was at the power center of the Lower Mixtec empire during the Postclassic and was involved in constant wars, first with Zapotecs, then the Aztecs. With the arrival of the Spaniards, the Zapotecs allied themselves with the conquistadors. At the end of 1521, Hernán Cortés sent a group of soldiers to discover where the Aztec gold originated. According to Aztec Emperor Moctezuma, the gold was sent to the garrison at Huaxyacac (now the city of Oaxaca) and from there, to Zaachila, where they were told that the gold originally came from Tutútepec.

The Spaniards left for Tutútepec, took the Lord prisoner, and tortured him, asking a ransom in gold for his release. Finally, they murdered him and returned to the Valley of Oaxaca, disregarding Cortés'orders to stay and settle the Tutútepec region.

The county of Tutútepec encompasses the town of Rio Grande and the Chacahua Lagoon wetlands area. The town boasts a fine modern museum to house the relics of this ancient zone. The great stone carvings that were on the grounds of the town church - - once the site of the Mixtec Temple of the Sky - - plus samples of tools, weapons and ceramics that span the centuries can be seen here.

There's the famous Goddess of the Sky stela, the jaguar thought to have been the temple guardian, which lost its head to raiding forces from Jicayán, and what appears to be a Plumed Serpent. The ties to other cultures are evident; some stone carvings show strong Toltec influences and there are ceramic figures that mirror the famous gold masks of Monte Alban. Although Tutútepec was never completely dominated by the Aztecs, it is clear that it was strongly influenced by the Nahuatls. Its name was changed to Tototepec (toto - Bird, tepec - Hill), then to Totoltepec. It became Tutútepec in 1623.

The museum also has a photo gallery and artifacts that document the Colonial and Independence eras. Not all the town relics are in the museum. Under a tile roof next to the church are the temple's original and successive bells, including one pierced by a bullet from the Revolution. There are ruins of what many believe to be the original Mixtec settlement here in La Soledad. And near the town of San José del Progresso, is la Piedra de San Vicente with its ancient cave paintings.

Near to town, is the Hill of the Birds, where that amazing view, which so impressed Matatzín and his followers, can still be enjoyed. In July, the townspeople hike the up there to enjoy a "Monday of the Hill", very much like the famous Guelaguetza in Oaxaca City.

Tutútepec is famous for its Fandango de Varitas, a kind of chilena music which traditionally features five or six musicians playing guitar, violin, cajón (a percussion instrument fashioned from a wooden box), charrasca and a cántaro (a kind of bass made from a clay pot).The Fandango is danced at all important fiestas, including every Friday in October leading up to Day of the Dead.

The anniversary celebration this month will offer lots of opportunities to see the Fandango. You will also be able to sample some of the local culinary specialties such as chicken mole, encaladas, suspiros and bolitas, which are sweet turnovers.

Local crafts and artwork will also be on sale, including elaborately embroidered blouses, bead work and figures carved from coconuts.
The road to Villa Tutútepec is just beyond the town of Santa Rosa de Lima, at about km 66 of the Coastal Highway towards Acapulco.