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Day | Itinerary | Stay |
1 | Flight YVR-MEX-SJO | San Antonio de Belén |
2 | Lankester | San Isidro del General |
3 | Dominical, Quepos | Manuel Antonio |
4 | Manuel Antonio | Liberia |
5 | Tamarindo | Tamarindo |
6 | Tamarindo | Tamarindo |
7 | Tamarindo | Tamarindo |
8 | Flamingo, Arenal | La Fortuna |
9 | Volcan Poas | Irazú, San José |
10 | Volcan Irazú | Irazú, San José |
11 | Centro San José | Irazú, San José |
12 | Flight SJO-MEX | México |
View all the photo scans here
Costa Rican Map with our journey in Red, and nights in Blue:
After we exited the gardens, we drove back through Cartago, and took the Carretera Interamericana
(2) south to San Isidro del General. Does that road ever climb! We finally mounted the 3400 m
summit in the driving rain, but was the flora ever neat up there, nothing like I had ever seen
before, save perhaps for the mountains on Kauai, with all the large and weird, high altitude and
moisture plants.
After descending about 2500 metres, we came into San Isidro, a 100 km drive from Cartago, which had taken about 2.5 hours. The road was absolute crap, with abundant deep and hard potholes, and many slides and washouts. At the summit, it was raining so hard, I could barely see. We checked into the San Isidro Hotel which was clean and simple for 8000 Colones, or about $C24, and had supper that was c=orrespondingly economical. Right in the hotel was an Internet cafe, which cost only 500 Colones an hour, which was sure a big change from past experiences.
After Dominical, we got on the rough gravel road. It sure wasn't the best I had ever been on, but
my dad thought it was his worst ever, I believe the road to Puerto Viejo on the east coast was the
bumpiest I have ever ridden. After an hour or so, we drove into Quepos, which still was a somewhat
scummy place, but we had lunch there. By then, it had started to rain again, so by the time we
drove the few kilometres down the road to Manuel Antonio to look for a hotel, it was just pissing
down. We finally got a tidy hotel for USD $24, and that included breakfast, so that wasn't too bad.
For supper, we went a bit down the road to a restaurant, MarLuna, recommended by the hotel
proprietess, and was it ever good. I had an atun fillet that was as big, rare, and tasty
as I had ever eaten. Not only was it by far the best meal that I ever had in Costa Rica, but
it sure was a top ten overall.
After we went over by Manuel Antonio beach, where a raccoon was eating from the garbage, we then
walked around the wet jungle peninsula, where we encountered an iguana. I took a few photos, then
we continued on up around the jungle trail. Upon the decent, we came across a big crowd, and they
were all watching some white faced monkeys playing in the trees. Continuing, we walked up the road,
and so sure enough, we soon saw a sloth on a tree canopy. Further on, we saw several other sloths,
and then came across a small deer that was exceptionally tame, so I took some very close photos.
After that, my dad exited the park the back way, and I walked back and took the viewpoint trail,
where I saw a coatamundi which I photographed. Returning, I stopped on the beautiful Play Espadilla
Sur, and there was a BIG iguana sitting right there, so its photos could be taken as close as
possible!
We then started driving north, and I was very pleasantly surprised to see the road from Quepos to
Jaco was all brand new, and smooth as a table. It used to be a gravel road from hell! Just after
it started raining hard again, we drove through Jaco Beach. After Jaco, we headed north some more,
and after we traversed the bridge over the Rio Tarcoles I thought had crocodiles under it, we
stopped on the other side, and this was where I screwed up! We got out of the car, and when I went
to leave the trunk, I couldn't find the car keys? I was pretty sure that I had just locked the
driver's door with them, but they were nowhere to be found. Anyway, to make a long story short,
after considerable searching, and using a coat hanger to open the car, my dad found the keys still
in the trunk's lock. Did I feel stupid! And to top it off, as the lights were left on, the car
wouldn't start, so we had to get it jump started. I finally did see and photograph the BIG
crocodiles, though, extremely impressive!!!
Needless to say, we were somewhat behind schedule, as I wanted to make it to Tamarindo, but the road
was busy and crappy, so I had to drive the last hour in the dark just to get to Liberia. We found a
half decent place on the highway that had seen way better days.
We got into Tamarindo at about 10:30, so I looked around for a motel a bit, and my dad liked the
Villa Amarilla right on the seashore. It was okay, but it sure not fancy. The bar and restaurant
were really neat, though, like a garden place. I think they made their money off the restaurant and
bar though, as we sure spent some dinero there. The beach didn't have a lot of wide dry sand like
Puerto, so the places to lay were restricted. For supper, I had a delicious roasted quarter chicken
at the hotel restaurant.
I was able to plug my computer in just across the street which had DHCP on ADSL, and get all my messages. On my WWW site, I saw that the place I was in before was the place across and down the street a bit, the Tropicana, and it was USD $40 a night, where it was only $20 in 97.
Arenal Volcano was clearly visible in the distance, so the weather luckily had cleared up. After driving on really crappy road, we went through Arenal, the town, and onto a road where I had turned around in 97, as it was too rough. This time however, it had been semi-paved, so we were able to continue on without too much trouble. Max wanted to stop at a jardin, so we did, and we saw some gigantic butterflies that had a wild blue topside, but which I could never photograph. I should just give up on butterflies.
After the jardin, we drove on some more, where I was able to take volcano photos, and some neat tall
reeds, which I guess were sugarcane. Five minutes more, and we came to a stop, as some coatamundi
were all over the road looking for handouts. Max fed them some wafers, and I was able to take a
photo of all the coatamundi congregating around the car. After that, we passed over the Arenal earth
dam, and down the road a short ways to the turn-off for the 9 Km drive to Arenal Lodge. My dad
could only handle about a klik on the back road, when we had to turn around and terminate the day's
plan. I was worried, as it was already 16:45, and it would be dark in 45 minutes. He thought the
poor road did not indicate quality accommodations ahead.
I thought we should go on to Fortuna, so he agreed, and there were a load of motels and lodgings
along the route, so that was a fortunate [NPI] guess. We also passed the Taliban (Tabacon) hot
springs, but I had read they were USD $17 each just to bathe, so I didn't even slow down. After a
bit, we came into La Fortuna, so we filled up with gas, and got the first hotel downtown Hotel
Tropical() near there, which was actually pretty nice, (new & all stained wood) for USD $35 a night,
then we had supper next door in a really well fitted out restaurant, with fancy tile floors and
wrought iron tienda, along with stained mahogany tables.
After we came near the summit, we had to exit right onto another road up to the Poas crater. This
road was surprisingly more 'wide' and 'level', than from looking at the map, as I had expected a
really steep mother road. Even though I had been there before, but seeing orchids growing on the
side of the road was even impressive for me! After paying the admission (USD $7 each) and parking,
we got out and walked up the 600 m to the crater viewpoint at 2567m. We were exceedingly fortunate,
as the sky momentarily cleared, and the sun shone on everything, so I was able to liberally
photograph the crater, with its turquoise lake and sulphourous fumeroles. We then took a short hike
on the concrete sidewalk to see Botos Lake, which was in an old crater to the east. Driving back
down the mountain, we were more or less fogged in the whole way, but we stopped to see some coffee
plants, where Max bought some more coffee.
A road system in the Valle Central doesn't exist, so it was almost impossible to figure out where to
go. We were looking for some hotels that I was given that morning. By the time we came to near
Alajuela, I stopped and asked for directions from a sawed-off shotgun armed guard, and then we went
a little further into the town, where traffic was bad (I thought until later) to a gas station where
I got some more directions to the airport, and the nice guy said to follow him. We passed the
airport, and I took the first right turn into the same town, Belén, as we were the first night. I
only got lost about five times, but we did see one place my dad didn't like, and then we were off
back to the highway, as I don't think my dad wanted to stay where we had been again and I didn't
really either, as the restaurant sucked! So, we ended up in massive traffic jams to get to the Best
Western Hotel Irazú, at USD $65 +T for the last three nights. The restaurant was a Dennys, which
left a lot to be desired, but the place was not too bad a deal, and conveniently located. Maybe the
best thing for me, was that they had free high speed Internet with DHCP for my laptop.
The weather didn't appear too promising, but it was supposed to be worse the next day, and I thought there might be a chance for some clear breaks. As I ascended the volcano, however, the soup progressively got worse, and at the top (3300m) it was socked right in and quite wet at 11 Celsius. I got out anyway, walked around the rim, and got soaked. I thought I saw the crater's lake, but it was difficult to see.
I descended the mountain, and took the long way through Cartago's centre, which was quite extensive and busy, and then I even found the most direct way back though Curridabat, which was quite a change! I did luck out when I returned, as I found a small mall right next door with a supermercado, and five restaurants, all which had to be MUCH better than Dennys. There was a seafood place, a Chinese, a sushi, an Italian Steakhouse, and some other joint in there. The first night, we ate next door at the "Italian Job", no, it was "la Casa de mi Abuela", but it was very good, a load better then the Dennys. What a bonus for the neighbourhood!!!
The second night, we ate a SUPERB meal! At the Italian restaurant, the chef made us special home-made spinach pasta stuffed with Porcini mushrooms. We also had Bruschetta and Prosciutto appetisers, all imported from Italy, WoW! I sure have to state that Costa Rican cuisine has come a long way since the first time I visited. The prices were not that exorbitant either, as the deluxe entrees were about 4000 Colones.
After the clouds obscured Costa Rica, the clear trip over Centro America was spectacular, as we saw so many volcanos, and I took about 11 photos. Several volcanos were smoking considerably; El Salvador may have had the neatest ones. Additionally, I did see one real promising beach town, right on El Salvador's southern tip.
After landing at MEX, we went through the special customs for Centro America, where they only had about 20 special police checking it out, and I am sure the dogs had sniffed all the luggage too! After checking my dad in at the Hotel Aeropuerto, we walked back to the airport and I got on the DC-9 to Puerto, where I was able to get some neat shots of Roca Blanca and Boca de Barra de Colotepec before landing.
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