The great thing about the holiday season in Oaxaca is that, while the festive spirit is in full force, the Christmas commercial frenzy is kept in check.
Here on the Oaxacan coast, there just isn't time to spend a month on shopping and jingles. Consider: December begins with the celebration for the Virgin of Juquila, then it's time to honor the Virgin of Guadalupe, México's patron saint. And once that's out of the way, there's the annual party to celebrate the patron saint of Puerto Escondido, the Virgin of Soledad. Only then is it time for Christmas, which is celebrated in its own special way in México.
So enjoy this wonderful time in this special corner of the world. Those
of us who are privileged to call Puerto Escondido our home often ignore
the hate and the ugliness of a world gone increasingly wrong. In this
season of hope and renewal, we can only wish that sanity, love and
understanding will win out. El Sol de la Costa wishes you and yours
peace, joy and health for the holidays, the New Year and beyond.
-- Warren Sharpe
Friday 9
IFOPE Bazaar
Holiday fundraiser for International Friends of P.E., a public interest
group formed by the expatriate community
5 p.m. IFOPE library, Rinconada
Night of Danzon
Stately, elegant dance that took the country by storm at the turn of the
century and is enjoying renewed popularity.
9 p.m. Villasol Beach Club
Saturday 10
Intercollegial Dance Contest
Terrific event in which teams of youngsters from local schools and
colleges compete for donated prizes in a high-energy contest of original
choreography and costumes and staging. Support your local youth.
Sponsored by Radio Station Esmeralda 94FM.
7 p.m. City Hall Plaza
Sat 10 - Mon 12
Fiesta of the Virgin of Guadalupe
México's national patron saint and "Empress of the Americas." was the
first religious icon recognized for veneration by the Catholic church in
the New World. In December of 1531, according to legend, the Virgin
appeared on several occasions to the Indian Juan Diego, finally leaving
her image on his tilma, or cloak.
It is probably not mere coincidence that these visitations occurred on the hill of Tepeyac, site of one of the most important prehispanic religious centers in central México.
The temple on the hill at Tepeyac (today the actual site of the Basilica of Guadalupe where the image is housed) was dedicated to the worship of Tonantzin, "Our Mother". The religious authorities tried in vain to eradicate this tenacious cult, and perhaps decided instead to Christianize it in the form of Guadalupe.
The image of the Virgin of Guadalupe is one of the great mysteries of the world. This rough handmade garment has lasted over 460 years. The normal lifespan for the fabric, made from agave, would be from 10-20 years.
In their non-literate colonial society, the Indians read the symbolism of the image. They saw that this woman was greater than the moon she stood on, but that she was lesser than and coming from the Sun god. Her blue green outer cloak told them that she was his ambassador.
The stars on her cloak formed the constellations as they appeared in the sky on December 12, 1531. At her waist was a black sash, as was worn by pregnant women at that time. Most important of all, unlike the paintings and the statues in the churches, this messenger from God had skin the color of their own, a coppery brown.
Guadalupe was embraced as the protector of the Indian and Mestizo masses against the harsh conditions of colonial rule. Over the centuries she became an important symbol of Méxican national unity. It was the banner of La Guadalupana that Father Miguel Hidalgo chose to rally support for his struggle for independence from Spain in 1810.
Dec. 12 is her actual feast day; it's a national holiday; banks, government offices and some businesses will be closed.
Monday 12
Children's Procession
Her role as protector of the indigenous peoples of the continent is one
that is still recognized today and symbolized by the delightful
procession of children that takes place every year on December 12.
Dressed in beautiful native costumes, the little girls bedecked in
ribbons and flowers, the boys in white campesino dress, sombreros and
carbon-daubed mustaches, the children gather at Parque El Idilio square
(calle 1a norte, a block off Av. Oaxaca ).
The procession begins at about 5 p.m., passing along Avenida Oaxaca to the church for a special mass to bless the children.
Thursday 15
Art Opening
This month's offering by the splendid Ch'che Gallery on the Adoquín is
an exhibition by the Michoacan painter Soledad Tafolla Leveroni, whose
has been presented in scores of personal and group shows in her native
state, as well as all over the Méxican Republic, the U.S., France Italy
and Cuba.
Opening Reception: 8 p.m. Galerína Ch'che, Adoquínn
Fri 16 - Sun 18
Fiesta of Our Lady of Soledad
The Fiestas of November not with- standing, this is Puerto's official
Annual Fair, in honor of its patron saint, the Virgin of Solitude.
The legend of La Soledad originates in the 17th century, when the city of Oaxaca was on the main trade route between Veracruz and the Pacific coast. According to this legend, a mule driver en route to Guatemala was surprised to find an extra mule bearing a strange wooden chest among his animals.
As he arrived at the monastery of Saint Sebastian the mule fell and resisted all efforts to get it on its feet.
Authorities were sent for and the mysterious box was opened, emitting a strong smell of gardenias. Inside was an image of the Virgin and a wooden icon of Christ.
A miracle was proclaimed and a temple dedicated to the Virgin of Soledad was erected at the site of the mule's demise. (You can visit the newly-restored Basilica of Soledad and its adjoining museum in the city of Oaxaca on Avenida Independencia).
Puerto's 3-day celebration of its patron saint features all the usual elements of the traditional fiesta on the coast: Lively processions, lots of music, the spectacular fireworks show known as the Castillo, but it culminates with a unique local custom that reflects Puerto's history as a fishing port: this is the ritual of taking the statue of the Virgin out to sea, accompanied by the entire local fishing fleet crammed with the faithful and accompanying musicians.
The candel-light calenda procession is particularly elaborate, with floats, hundreds of beautifully dressed madrinas bearing baskets of flowers and fruit, huge parade puppets and several bands.
The Program of Events:
Friday 16
5:30 p.m. Convite Procession to invite everyone to participate in the
fiesta activities.
8:30 p.m. Calenda candle-lit procession through the streets of town.
Saturday 17
1 p.m. Mass and Community Meal with entertainment by various
traditional brass bands.
8:00 p.m. Cultural Program, culminating in the castillo, spectacular
fireworks display.
City Hall Plaza
Sunday 18
5:00 a.m. Mañanitas serenade to the patron saint.
6:00 a.m. Dawn Mass
4:00 p.m. Procession to the Sea, the image of the Virgin will be taken
out to sea, followed by a mass at the jetty.
Saturday 17
Grand Rodeo/Dance
Puerto's splendid rodeo arena, La Costeñita, celebrates its 4th
anniversary this month with a marathon line up of bull riding
competition and an all-star dance concert featuring Los Originales de
San Juan, a norteńño quartet based in Southern California. Since they
formed in the early '90s they have built up a loyal following on both
sides of the border. Also Los Internacioales Cadetes de Linares. Raffles,
door prizes and big fun.
9 p.m. Plaza de Toros La Costeńñita
Sat 17, Sun 18
8th Artists of Zicatea International Art Fair
Has it really been eight years since the the Hotel Arcoiris and Galeria
Diana launched this holiday arts fair? The aim is to promote art,
creativity and cultural interaction in the community.
This event is more than just a group show of local artists. Since this is a cosmopolitan resort, art is a means of transcending our language differences. Besides the exhibition and sale of finished artwork, there will be demonstrations of craft techniques, classes, workshops, music and dancing and special events. All activities are free of charge. For more info. call; 582-0432, 582-1494 or 582-2344
Saturday 17
10 a.m. Inauguration
Sunday 18
6p.m. Closing events
Hotel Arco Iris, Zicatela
Wednesday 21
First Day of Winter
It officially begins at 12:35 p.m. Aren't you glad you're here?
Sat 24, Sun 25
Annual Fair in Barra de Navidad
There are two Barras here, this one is on the far side of the Colotepec
River on the coast highway towards Pochutla.
Details were unavailable to us at press time on planned events, but the community will certainly want to showcase their eco-preserve for nature tours.
The residents of Barra de Navidad (Christmas Sand Bar) formed a nonprofit organization to protect the nearby twin lagoons of Los Naranjos and Palmazola for eco-tourism.
Saturday 24
Christmas Eve
Known as Noche Buena, "Good Night", this is when Christmas is
traditionally celebrated in México with a family feast and Misa de
Gallo, Midnight Mass.
Festival of Lights
First night of the Jewish Festival of Channukah.
Sunday 25
Merry Christmas
Wednesday 28
Innocent Children
The feast day that commemorates Herod's order to kill all new born boys
in an attempt to kill the baby Jesus. It has become México's equivalent
of April Fools' Day, when people play tricks and practical jokes on each
other. Is it not the fate of innocents in this world to be made fools
of?
Saturday 31
New Year's Eve
And a Saturday Night, too. Lots of special dinners and dances around
town, including many of our advertisers. Check these pages to see some
of what is available.
Friday, Jan 6
Day of Kings
The 12th Night of Christmas, Epiphany or Day the Kings, is the
traditional day for Christmas gift giving in México.
Tues, Jan 10
Puerto Blues 2006
The Canadian blues fest returns! Opening this year's concert series is
Paul James, a Canadian cultural icon. Paul's roots-rock and blues
singing/songwriting and guitar style have garnered national music
awards. The consummate entertainer, Paul has shared the stage with Bob
Dylan, Bo Diddley and Lightnin' Hopkins among many. Paul plays Tue 10,
Thur 12, Sat 14, then it's the turn of 15-year old prodigy Jimmy Boskill, Jan. 24, 26 and 28.
Villa Belmar Beach Club