TRYING to distill 10 years of reporting on the joys and foibles of this special place has proven to be a daunting task. But, I hope I have succeeded in capturing the magical allure of the Hidden Port and the cultural and environmental wonders of the state of Oaxaca.
Out of necessity, some of these stories have been condensed, but if you would
like to learn more about any of these subjects, we will be glad to
provide you with a back issue at a nominal cost. Thank you for your
support and well wishes over these past 10 amazing years.
- - Warren Sharpe, editor
December 8
The Virgin of Juquila
Santa Catarina Juquila is Oaxaca's Lourdes, a place that attracts
believers from all over Mexico, who make their pilgrimage to repay a
blessing, to seek a cure for illness or to renew their faith on foot,
bicycle, bus, truck, car and motorbike.
The devotees who join the never-ending services in the town church and visit the nearby sanctuary of El Pedimento. A crazy-quilt collage of cultural artifacts are deposited on the shrine here every day: bank notes, crutches, tiny representations of hearts, limbs, houses, cars, and other symbols representing hopes or thanks for health and prosperity.
The veneration of Our Lady of Juquila dates back to the early 17th Century. The small statue of the Virgin was one of the first images carried through the area by Dominican missionaries.
December 12
The Virgin of Guadalupe
In December of 1531, according to legend, the Virgin appeared on
several occasions to a humble Indian, Juan Diego, eventually leaving
an impression of her image on his tilma, or cloak.
These visitations occurred on the hill of Tepeyac, site of one of the most important prehispanic religious centers in central Mexico. The temple on the hill at Tepeyac (today the actual site of the Basilica of Guadalupe where the image is housed) was dedicated to the worship of Tonantzin, "Our Mother". The religious authorities tried in vain to eradicate this tenacious cult, and perhaps decided instead to Christianize it in the form of Guadalupe.
The image of the Virgin of Guadalupe, Mexico's national patron saint, is one of the great religious enigmas. This rough handmade garment has lasted nearly 500 years. The normal lifespan for a rough cloak of agave fibre, would be 10 to 20 years.
The symbolism of this image in that nonliterate colonial society was powerful; it's said that this woman was greater than the Moon she stood upon and her blue-green cloak meant that she was an ambassador of the Sun God. The stars on her cloak formed the constellations as they appeared in the sky on December 12, 1531. At her waist was a black sash, as was worn by pregnant women at that time.
Most important of all, unlike the paintings and statues in the invaders' churches, this messenger from God had a coppery brown skin tone, not unlike that of the indigenous people. Guadalupe was embraced as the protector of the Indian and Mestizo masses under the harsh conditions of colonial rule.
Her recognition by Pope John Paul II as "Mother of the Americas" and the canonization of Juan Diego in 2002 spread the veneration of La Guadalupana far beyond her ethnic and religious roots: artists around the world depict aspects of her in every medium. She represented justice in the recent immigrant protests in the U.S. and many non-Christian women have embraced her as a symbol of feminist empowerment.
Sunday 16 - Tuesday 18
Fiesta of Our Lady of Solitude
La Virgen de la Soledad is Puerto's official patron saint, as well as
that of the city of Oaxaca. The miracle of La Soledad originates in
the 17th century, when Oaxaca was on the main trade route between
Veracruz and the Pacific coast. According to legend, a mule-teamster
was puzzled to discover an extra animal, with a strange wooden chest,
as part of his team.
As he arrived at the monastery of Saint Sebastian the mule fell down and resisted all efforts to get it on its feet. Authorities were sent for and the mysterious box was opened, emitting a strong smell of gardenias. Inside was an image of the Virgin and a wooden icon of Christ.
A miracle was proclaimed and a temple dedicated to the Virgin of Soledad was erected at the site of the mule's demise. (You can visit the Basilica of Soledad and its adjoining museum in the city of Oaxaca.)
Puerto's celebration of its patron saint includes a unique local custom that reflects Puerto's history as a fishing port: this is the ritual of taking the statue of the Virgin out to sea. On the actual feast day, Dec, 18, the statue of La Soledad is carried from the church to the beach, hoisted aboard a boat and a flotilla comprising the entire fishing fleet, crammed with the faithful, cruises into the ocean, accompanied by lively music and rockets.
Partial Program of Events:
Saturday 22
Grand Rodeo/Dance
Puerto's splendid rodeo arena, La Costeñita, celebrates its 6th
anniversary this month with a marathon line up of bull riding
competition and an all-star dance concert, headed by the popular band
Apuesta. Plus raffles, door prizes and big fun.
9 p.m. Plaza de Toros La Costeñita
Monday 24
Christmas Eve
Known as Noche Buena, "Night of Goodness", this is when Christmas is
traditionally celebrated in Mexico, when families gather for their
Christmas feast, then perhaps attend Misa de Gallo, Midnight Mass.
The Villa Sol, Posada Real, Split Coconut and Los Tugas are among our friends who will be offering special dinner programs Xmas Eve, Posada Real also plans a festive program for Xmas Day itself.
Friday 28
Innocent Children
The feast day that commemorates Herod's order to kill all new born
boys in an attempt to kill the baby Jesus. It has become México's
equivalent of April Fools' Day, when people play tricks and practical
jokes on each other. After all, Is it not the fate of innocents in
this world to be made taken advantage of? Don't accept any wooden
nickels!
Sunday, Jan 6
Day of Kings
The 12th Night of Christmas, Epiphany or Day of the Kings, is the
traditional day for Christmas gift giving in México. Lots of parties,
with the traditional Rostro de Reyes cake, Annual Fair in the ancient
Chatino town of Nopala.
For more on Mexican Christmas traditions, or Santos Reyes Nopala, see any
of our past December issues.