I CAN'T REMEMBER WHO said that time exists so that everything doesn't happen all at once. But during these first weeks of the new year, it seems that's exactly what's happening.
The Puerto Blues Festival is in full swing and electrifying Puerto's nightlife and live music scene. There are always fiestas taking place locally, but when Dia de la Candelaria (Candlemas Feb. 2), which marks the end of Christmas festivities, coincides (collides?) with the start of Carnaval, the pre-Lenten festival of pleasure and indulgence, it's almost as if a time warp has created an overload of diversions for visitors to this Puerto Escondido, more evidence of the magic of this enchanted port, perhaps.
I don't have to resort to hyperbole and boosterism for this issue (which I admit to having done during the course of the 10 years I've produced this modest publication).
Dear Reader: I have no way of knowing whether El Sol de la Costa has found its way into your hands for the first (and possibly the last) time or if you have been reading my sometimes clumsy efforts for some (or all) of those 10 years.
There's simply too much happening this month for me to have included more of the things that make this such a special place.
(If this edition has piqued your curiosity about any particular aspect of Puerto and Oaxacan culture, history, customs, food, artwork, shopping, or what have you, I have 10 years' worth of back issues available to you at just 10 pesos per.)
DID I MENTION THAT IT'S BEEN TEN YEARS? As I observe the new Chedraui store taking form at supersonic speed (for Puerto, at least), it symbolizes for me the vast changes that have taken place in the last decade. I remember attending a gathering of expatriates shortly after my arrival. A brush burn nearby suddenly flared up and the mother of one of these new friends, here on a visit squawked hysterically "Call the Fire Dept . . Call the Fire Dept." It struck us hysterical and we collapsed in laughter.
Well, we DO have a Fire Dept.; We have traffic lights, more paved streets, SIX gas stations, a venue that attracts international entertainment acts, a university, robust real estate development, even rush-hour traffic congestion.
The sleepy town has grown into a city. As we were finishing this issue, The New York Times published a story on buying a second home in Puerto Escondido. And the Conde Nast Traveler has selected Puerto Escondido & the Coast of Oaxaca for 2008 It List of hot travel destinations (we come in at #9, between Oman and Paris).
This Hidden Port will be hidden for no more. Many of us have
ambivalent feelings about all of this. We must hope our infrastructure
keeps pace and together take care to preserve the special qualities
the brought us here. And I join you in welcoming Super Che to our
City.
- - Warren Sharpe, editor
Thursday 10 - Sat 12
Annual Fair
Santa María Colotepec
This week the neighboring town of Colotepec honors its patron saint,
the Virgin of Guadalupe. The feast day for Mexico's national saint is
actually Dec. 12, but it isn't unusual for the many communities named
for her to hold their festivities around the 12th day of other months.
This practice dates back to the days when there simply weren't enough circuit priests available to officiate in the smaller, outlying communities during important feast days. (Last month's edition included an in depth article on fiestas for on the Oaxacan coast. Back issues on this and many other subjects of interest are available in our offices.)
Saturday 12 - Tue 22
Fiesta of the Virgin of the Poor
Col. Lázaro Cardenas
Lázaro Cárdenas is the original and Puerto's most populous colonia
(neighborhood). Named for the immensely popular Mexican president who
nationalized the oil industry, it is located beside the army base and
runs up the hill across the highway above Zicatela Beach.
It is a modest neighborhood of fishermen and working people, so it is appropriate that, when a small chapel was built in the neighborhood in 1989, the Virgin of the Poor was adopted as the patron saint. That chapel has been transformed into a handsome church, around which most of the activities to honor the patrona will take place.
Here's the schedule of events:
Saturday 12
9 a.m. Women's football tournament
8 p.m. Coronation of Fiesta Queen, followed by dance to kick off the
annual fair.
Sunday 13
9 a.m. Men's Football and Volleyball Contests
Monday 14
8 p.m. "Mr. Cat's Fiesta" theater piece by students from Juana de
Asbaje secondary school
Tuesday 15
8 p.m. Cultural presentation by local primary school
Wednesday 15
8 p.m. Folkloric Ballet of Colonia Lázaro Cárdenas
Thursday 17, Friday 18
5 p.m. Cock Fights
Thursday 17
7 p.m. Wushu martial art, Boxing
Friday 18
4 p.m. Convite Procession
8 p.m. Calenda
Saturday 19
4 p.m. Jaripeo, rodeo
9:30 p.m. Fireworks castillo
10 p.m. Dance with bands Los Yonics, Mar Azul and Ticolich sound
system
Sunday 20
6 a.m. Mañanitas, Dawn Mass
1 p.m. Community gathering
Men's Basketball Tournament
Monday 21
4 p.m. Horse Races, demonstration of cowboy roping,
exhibition of Show Horses
Tuesday 22
5 p.m. "Greased Pole" contest, more fireworks and closing dance
Sunday 20
Election of Puerto's Mayor
Puerto's Agente Municipal, (municpal agent) serves a three-year term.
Late last year, the municipios (counties) of San Pedro Mixtepec and
Santa María Colotepec selected their new presidents. City hall is the
seat of the municpal agency belonging to San Pedro, so in the parts of
town that pertain to San Pedro, the Dry Law goes into effect at
midnight Friday and lasts until polls close on Sunday. No alcohol
sold or served.
(Just which part of Puerto is Mixtepec territory and which is
Colotepec is unclear in a dispute that has dragged on for decades.)
Friday 18 - Mon 21
Fiesta of the Sweet Name of Jesus
San Juan Lachao
This community in the Chatino hill country in Pueblo Nuevo is known
for its nearby waterfalls, favorite spots for picnicking and hiking.
Wednesday 23, Sat 26
Puerto Blues 2008
Dave Rotundo, Dan Dufour and Rick Steeves
Dave is simply a terrific harp player, as anyone who attended his
performances in previous years will attest. Dan Dufour, known as Auto
Pilot Slim, picked up his first guitar at the age of 11 and dedicated
himself to the blues in the late '80s. Rick Steeves returns after an
absence of a year. On his last visit to Puerto Blues he had the crowd
on their feet dancing for the entire night.
8:30 Belmar Beach Club, Zicatela
Saturday 26
Julio Garcia Quartet
Bossa nova & Cuban music
8 p.m. Playa Sol Beach Club
Saturday, Feb. 2
Candlemas
Día de la Candelaria is the final observance of the Christmas season.
It marks 40 days after the birth of the Jesus, when Mary and Joseph
presented their child at the Temple (probably, in accordance to Jewish
law, for circumcision).
The term comes from the Spanish word for candle (although in México the word vela is more commonly used than candela). In Catholic dogma, it symbolizes the child's being shown the "Light of the World" by being taken into the bosom of the church.
You'll often see ladies carrying dolls, elaborately dressed in satins and silks, from the creche of the family nativity to the special Candelaria mass. You'll also see displays of the Baby Jesus dolls at the market.
It's the Annual Fair in the colonia La Candelaria in San Pedro Mixtepec and in Candelaria, Loxicha. But there will celebrations going on everywhere, because of the popular custom of baking a small plastic doll into the ring cake Rosca de Reyes cake, on the Day of Kings. Whomever gets the piece with the doll in it must host a party on Candelaria Day. Tamales and drinking chocolate are the traditionally served, but it's not un usual for for some more robust beverages to be consumed.
Saturday Feb. 2 - Tue 5
Carnaval de la Costa 2008
The great pre-Lenten party returns to the streets of Puerto Escondido.
(See our feature story) If the blues isn't your
thing, maybe the tropical samba and cumbia rhythms will get you
moving. (If neither of these work, you might need to check your vital
signs.) The official program was not available at press time, but
based on previous years, here's some of what will be going on:
Saturday Feb. 2
Election of Carnaval Queen and "King Ugly" and the ritual Burning of
Woes, plus entertainment and dancing.
Sunday Feb. 3
First Carnaval Parade, then more entertainment and dancing.
Monday Feb 4
Entertainment and dancing.
Tuesday Feb. 5
Fat Tuesday, Mardi Gras: Second Parade, prize ceremony for best
floats, costume and dance groups. Then lots more entertainment &
dancing.
Events usually take place at City Hall Plaza, but Carnaval could break
out on the Adoquin and other parts of town.
Check with us for an update.
Sunday, Feb. 3
Super Bowl XLII
What will we do with those 12-plus hours per week we spent watching
football? Well this is the grand finale, the day the world learns to
use roman numerals. Looking to watch the game in English - - and see
all those great ads, in case the game is a dud? The Split Coconut and
the Hotel Ben-zaa are your best bets.
Tuesday, Feb. 5
Constitution Day
The Constitution of 1917 was adopted on this day under Venustiano
Carranza. National holiday: government offices and some businesses
closed.
Wednesday Feb 6
Ash Wednesday
Beginning of Lent, the 40-day period of solemnity and reflection for Christians
Wednesday Feb 6, Sat 9
Puerto Blues 2008
Bruce Katz, Enrico Crivellaro, Dave Rotundo and Jimmy Bowskill
Wow, what a line up! Katz is considered one the best keyboardists in the biz.
8:30 Belmar Beach Club, Zicatela, Cover: $60.00
Friday Feb 8
First Friday of Lent
It's a huge annual fiesta in Huazolotitlan, one of our favorite
indigenous villages, best known for its mask makers and huipil
embroiderers. Families gather for barbecue, libations and dancing.
When dusk falls, they gather in the church square and fire up hundreds
of firework-rigged toritos (little bull - effigies, not real ones.)
Friday Feb 8, Sat 9
Rodrigo Godoy
Flamenco music and dance
8 p.m. Playa Sol Beach Club
Monday 11 - Thu 14
Annual Fair in El Tomatal
Just 20 km from Puerto, it's a visitor-friendly community noted for
its environmental activities, such as turtle release fairs and its
efforts at sustainable economic development.