From the Editor:
![[el jefe]](images/jefe.jpeg "el jefe")
WHEN I FIRST began chronicling life on the coast of Oaxaca, I recall
interviewing the local parish priest about the upcoming fiesta for the
Virgin of Soledad, the patron saint of Puerto. "You have to understand", he
told me, "these fiestas are a mix of the sacred and the profane. We have our
religious rituals and then there are all the elements that have nothing to
do with religion."
Perhaps nothing expresses this dichotomy more clearly than the weeks of Lent leading up to Easter. Lent is supposed to be a time of solemn contemplation, but in many communities it's actually a reason for a fiesta: the first Friday of Lent in Huazolo and the fourth Friday of Lent in Huaxpala, for example.
Then, of course, there is Easter itself. The most holy time in the Church calendar is also a time of Dionysic excess on the beaches of Mexico, where thousands of vacationers gather for Spring break bacchanalias
In this issue, we also continue our travels off the beaten path into Chatino
country. As the days get hotter, the cooler foothills of the Sierra above
Puerto become more and more inviting.
- - Warren Sharpe, Editor
Many of these communities will celebrate their annual fair to honor their patron saint, this week. Traditional saint's fiestas include calendas, lively processions through the streets with brass bands, huge papier-mache puppets and candle-lit globes inviting participation in the festivities.
There are fireworks displays and jaripeos (bull riding rodeo competitions), dances with live bands and sports events, including often cockfights and horse races.
The closest San José to Puerto is San José Manialtepec, about 10 minutes
beyond the recreation areas around Manialtepec Lagoon. Here you can rent
horses and take a leisurely ride to the Hot Springs of Atotonilco. San José
del Progreso, about an hour's drive further west on the Coast Highway, is
close to the vast lagoon complex of Chacahua National Park. San José del
Pacífico is a three-hour drive into the cloud forests of the high Sierra.
See more on this mountain retreat.
Wednesday 18
Anniversary of the Nationalization of the Oil Industry
The great populist president Lázaro Cárdenas signed the proclamation
declaring Mexican ownership of this important national resource on Mar. 18.
1938, after the foreign oil companies refused to accept arbitration to end a
long and bitter strike by oil workers. The anniversary is celebrated with
civic events and rightfully extolled as a critical milestone in Mexican
economic history.
Thursday 19
Red Cross Fund Drive
The month-long fundraising effort kicks off with a ceremony at the Red Cross
headquarters on calle 7ª norte at 11 a.m.
Friday 20
First Day of Spring
It begins officially at 5:45 p.m.
Friday of the Good Samaritan
Part of the Lent observances, this day marks the kindness of the Good
Samaritan woman who gave Jesus water during his 40-day ordeal in the desert.
It is customary for people to set up decorated stands to offer flavored
waters (aguas de sabor, such as jamaica - - hibiscus )to neighbors and
passersby.
Fourth Friday of Lent
San Andres Huaxpala celebrates the Day of Jesus the Nazarene with a
bustling, colorful fiesta which transforms this Mixtec town, midway between
Jamiltepec and Pinotepa Nacional, into a huge country fair and bazaar. Here
is the home of Tata Chu, a dark skinned Christ greatly revered in the
region. This long-established fair and market brings together not only the
local Mixtec Indians from the coast but also Chatinos, Amuzgos and
Mazatecas.
No formal program was available, but the festivities go on for several days.
Saturday 21
![[Benito Juarez]](images/juarez.gif "Benito Juarez")
Birthday of Benito Juárez
Among its many illustrious sons, Oaxaca produced two dominant figures in
Mexican history. One is Porfirio Diaz, the president
who didn't know when to quit and whose excesses gave birth to the Mexican Revolution. The other is
Benito Juárez, the Zapotec Indian who rose from humble origins to become the
most revered leader in Mexican history and, indeed, all of Latin America.
Benito Pablo Juárez García was born on March 21, 1806 in the village of San Pablo Guelatao, Ixtlán, Oaxaca. Orphaned at age four, he learned to speak Spanish and to read and write at the age of 12, when he was sent by his impoverished relatives to Oaxaca and taken into a seminary for an education.
He went on to study law and at age 28 began his career in public office as a councilman in the town. He later served as state deputy, a civil and finance judge, secretary of state, governor and, seven times, president of Mexico. During his long political life he suffered jail terms and exile. He led the resistance to the French invasion under the Emperor Maximilian and guided the country through a time of vicious internal struggles to establish La Reforma, the series of reforms that limited the powerhold of the church, foreign business interests and the old ruling class.
Most of all, Juárez is remembered for his honesty, unimpeachable integrity and humanity. His quote: "Respect for the rights of others brings peace" (El respeto al derecho ajeno es la paz) is the motto on the seal of the state of Oaxaca.
A national holiday, banks and government offices are closed. A civic ceremony to honor the great man will be held at 8 a.m. at the Juarez monument on the highway.
Also in the evening, some of the local preschools traditionally hold Spring parades today.
Sunday 22 - Wed 25
Annual Fair
San Gabriel Mixtepec
The official feast day for Saint Gabriel the Apostle is actually in
September. But, because this is often the wettest month of the year, and
nobody wants it to rain on their parade, this town's big fiesta is in early
Spring.
San Gabriel Mixtepec is an attractive coffee-growing community, perched in the foothills amid rich vegetation and abundant wildlife. Its riverbanks and waterfalls are popular picnic sites. It is the location of Rancho el Sagrado, a tranquil hideaway mentioned in last month's issue.
San Gabriel is about an hour-and-a-half drive from Puerto, it's where you would leave Highway 137 for Santos Reyes Nopala. The fiesta highlights include: the Calenda parade, Sun, 22; Fireworks, Mon, 23; the big Dance on Tue, 24. Organizers have also planned two days of Jaripeo rodeos on Saturday, 28 and Sunday 29 of March.
Friday 27
Art Gallery Opening
Here's some very good news for Puerto Escondido's often moribund art scene:
The opening of La Galeria del Puerto, a spacious, airy shrine to creativity
located behind Restaurant Charley at the southern end of the Playa
Zicatela commercial strip.
The new gallery is the latest venture of Armando Gonzalez, who, with his wife, the photographer Paula Macdonald, has relocated here from Baja California, where Armando was owner of the famous Galeria Del Mar in Rosarito Beach. During his many years as art curator and dealer (in San Diego and Baja) he presented major shows by established artists, while supporting unknowns he believed in, many of whom became stars in their own right.
The Galería del Puerto reflects the eclectic tastes of its gregarious owner: sculpture, abstract, landscapes, colorful surrealism, lots of whimsy and a fine collection of quality traditional crafts.
Armando says he is looking forward to meeting local artists and plans to
host regular monthly cultural events, about which we will, of course, keep
you apprised.
7 p.m. La Galería del Puerto, Playa Zicatela
Friday April 3
![[Alvaro Carrillo]](images/carrillo.jpeg "Alvaro Carrillo")
Homage to Alvaro Carrillo
Oaxaca's best known composer of popular music, died tragically young in
April 3, 1969 in a car wreck, just as his star was on the rise.
Every year on the anniversary of his untimely death, Pinotepa Nacional, a city he did so much to immortalize with his Pinotepa, perhaps the best-known chilena of them all, pays tribute to this native son and his musical heritage.
A host of musicians, trios and bands, will interpret his music in this annual festival which begins at 6 p.m., Municipal Square, Pinotepa Nacional. More on Alvaro Carillo on Page 14.
Sunday April 5
Daylight Saving Time Begins
The U.S.A. turned its clocks forward on March 7. Here in México, DST takes
effect at 2 a.m. on the first Sunday of April, when clocks are to be set
forward one hour (i.e. 2 a.m. becomes 3 a.m.). Personally I love those long,
languorous evenings. And now your cable & satellite service will be in
synch with the universe
Palm Sunday
No shortage of palms here for the faithful who mark Jesus' triumphant return
to Jerusalem with processions and religious observances, officially ending
the 40 days of Lent. (In the Mixtec market town of Santiago Jamiltepec this
is a major feast day with an elaborate parade and activities.) In Puerto
there is normally a morning mass at the cross above the Zicatela Point.
Thursday 9 - Sunday 12
Easter Week
Although it officially starts on Palm Sunday, it generally refers to the
Thursday-through-Sunday Easter holiday weekend, the busiest tourist period
of the entire year. This is when thousands flee the chaos of the cities for
Spring vacation, and in the process bring some of that same urban chaos to
us.
It's not the best time to be traveling, since accommodation is almost impossible to find. bus and air tickets are sold out and stores and restaurants are packed.
Semana Santa is, of course, the most important religious observation in the Christian liturgical year. It celebrates the resurrection of Jesus which Christians believe occurred on the third day after his crucifixion, the basic tenet of all Christian churches.
Thursday and Good Friday of Easter Week are when things reach a peak of activity. On these days most communities hold religious processions and reenactments of events such as the Last Supper and the arrest of Christ and His trial before Herod.
On Good Friday the procession known as el Encuentro, the meeting or encounter, takes place when Mary is reunited with her son during His passage along the Via Doloroso to His crucifixion.
To meet the sybaritic needs of our visitors there will be all manner of entertainment activities taking place around town: carnival rides for the kids, dances, beach parties, sometimes cock fights and almost always rodeos. Mariachis, street entertainers, arts and crafts vendors work the crowds strolling the Adoquin pedestrian mall and the Zicatela strip.
Here are some of the regularly occurring events during Easter Week: Festival of the Sea is a three-day program of music, sports, games and prizes from a stage on the town's main beach, (Playa Principal) sponsored by the Sol beer people.
Boca Barra Festival in Barra de Colotepec, which sits at the mouth of the Colotepec River, hosts an Easter weekend fiesta each year that includes a fishing tournament, Surfing and Miss Bikini contest, a Beach Rodeo The entrance to the town is just before you reach the bridge over the Colotepec River.
Ecology & Folklore Festival in the other Barra, Barra de Navidad (located on the far bank of the Colotepec River). On Easter Weekend, the town will show off its eco-tourism preserve, with its iguana and crocodile hatchery, offer tours of their small lagoons to view the bird activity and the other abundant wildlife, including the release of baby marine turtles.
Friday 10
Anniversary of the Death of Emiliano Zapata
Lured into a treacherous ambush by Col. Jesús M. Guajardo in Chinameca,
Morelos on April 10, 1919. Flags are flown at half mast on public buildings.
Saturday 11 - Sunday 12
1,652nd Anniversary of the Founding of Villa Tututepec
This month San Pedro Tututepec, now known as Villa Tututepec de Melchor
Ocampo, celebrates 1,652 years of continuous human occupation with a series
of special events.
San Pedro Tututepec lies eight kilometers off the Coastal Highway, perched atop a cluster of foothills rich in lush vegetation. At the time of the Spanish Conquest (1519-1522), this part of the Oaxacan coast had long been under the control of a Mixtec dynasty based in Tututepec.
According to interpretation of surviving Mixtec codices, on April 3, 357 AD, the king of Tilantongo sent Prince Matatzín to lead 20,000 families, the high priest of Achiutla and 50 other priests to colonize the rich lands and trading routes of the coastal plains.
The place they chose they called Yucu Saa (Hill - yucu, of the Birds - saá), named for the pyramid-like peak covered with seabirds that they encountered. Matatzín found this to be a propitious sign and, when they had climbed to the summit, they were awed by the view: the wetlands of Chacahua; the great Pacific; the green plains and the mountains beyond Pochutla and Juquila.
The Lord of Tututepec was at the power center of the Lower Mixtec empire during the Postclassic and was involved in constant wars, first with Zapotecs, then the Aztecs.
The town boasts a fine modern museum to house the relics of this ancient zone. Tututepec is famous for its Fandango de Varitas, a kind of chilena music which traditionally features five or six musicians playing guitar, violin, cajón (a percussion instrument fashioned from a wooden box), charrasca and a cántaro (a kind of bass made from a clay pot). Local crafts and artwork will also be on sale, including elaborately embroidered blouses, bead work and figures carved from coconuts.
The road to Villa Tututepec is just beyond the town of Santa Rosa de Lima at about km 66 of the Coastal Highway towards Acapulco.